Hello everyone. I just finished rebuilding the engine in my grandpa'* 95 Buick Lesabre and am having some starting issues. He'* been having intermittent problems with it for a while now. He had the fuel pump and the alternator replaced at the beginning of this year. Then he replaced the cam sensor a few months ago, but he was still having a problem with the car dying immediately after startup, up to seven times before it would run all right. When I tore the engine down I found that the cam sensor wasn't installed properly, it wasn't pushed into the hole in the block.

The engine went back together just fine, and it started right up. It had run for about 10 minutes when I noticed that it would stumble at higher rpms, and if you blipped the throttle, it would almost die out before the rpms picked up. A few minutes later it stalled and now it won't run. The oil pressure and temp were fine before it died, and it was showing 15.8 volts. However, the alternator light was on (he says it is always on), and the temp light stays on now too. When you turn the key on you can hear the pump prime. The car will start, run for about two seconds and shut back off. If you turn the key off, then on again it will start and die. If you don't turn the key off before you try to restart it, it just cranks and doesn't fire.

I haven't tested the fuel pressure yet, but it won't even hit the firewall when you press the schreader valve with the key on, which doesn't seem right to me.

Sorry about the last post. It wasn't quite finished. Anyway, I got it to run again tonight. About 10 seconds after it starts the alternator light comes on, then within 30 seconds the check engine light comes on. It will idle right at 800, but the tach jumps up and down a little. Also, the alternator will erratically go from 15.8 down to about 13 volts and back up again and the lights will dim and flicker. When you rev it up, as soon as you hit 1500 rpms the temp light comes on and the car starts to die. If you let of right away, it will idle and all the warning lights go out. Then the alternator light comes on in 10 seconds and the ce light within 30 etc., as if you had cycled the key. If you try and keep it revved up it will die and you have to cycle the key to get it to start again. I have a pretty good idea of what I need to start checking, but any advice would be greatly appreciated! Is there a paperclip method for checking the codes on these cars, or do I need a code reader? Thanks, Chris.

Chris...being an OBD 1.5 year (94 and 95) you will need a code reader and you will want to ensure it reads your year.

Some of the symptoms you mention could have something to do with the VATS system, but I doubt that'* the main issue here.

Let'* start you off with a good battery cable cleaning. Remove the cables from the battery, jpull the bolts out, then remove the rubber boots as they slide off once the bolts are out. Any corrosion needs to be banished from them. Once you have good electrical connections etc, ensure you tightened the grounds to the engine block.

With that complete..if it'* still running poorly and acting funky, replace the pcm. 94 and 95 are by far the worst years for pcm'* not being reliable.

Thanks for the help. Replaced the computer and now it'* running like a buick. Once it'* warm the oil pressure is about 30 on the gauge. Does that sound right? Thanks again, Chris.

It'* in the area for sure. The gauges on these cars were not known for their great accuracy, only a general idea.