Too much positive camber after strut replacement
#1
Too much positive camber after strut replacement
Hi, I replaced the front struts with Monroe quick struts (171665 on a 2003 Park Avenue), but both left and right sides now have way too much positive camber that it'* really noticeable. The instructions did say the springs will settle, but this is too much camber. Did I do it wrong or will the alignment be able to correct the camber? I even loosened the 2 bolts and the knuckle and the 3 tower bolts and used a hack under the knuckle in an attempt to reduce the camber, but it'* still there!
#2
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Did you make sure the upper spring seat is oriented correctly? The plastic tab on the seat should be on the opposite side from the Cletus opening. The thinnest part of the spring seat lines up with the opening. If you have that correct, the alignment should correct the camber issue. Let me know how it is after the alignment.
#3
Wow...sorry for all those misspellings! I know I was tired after working on the car, but those typos are ridiculous.
Thanks for the help...but I don't see how the upper spring seat can be oriented incorrectly...I'll take some photos in the morning when there'* light.
The 2 plastic tabs fit into the 2 corresponding holes in the strut tower...and the cletus opening can only fit the knuckle one way.
I did notice the new spring in the Quick Struts has more turns than my old springs and the front is sitting higher than before...but I imagine the Park Avenue is probably one of the heavier cars for that strut so this also doesn't make sense.
Lastly, I also have noticeable toe-out.
-------------- original post with spellings corrected ------------
Hi, I replaced the front struts with Monroe quick struts (#171665 for a 2003 Park Avenue), but both left and right sides now have way too much positive camber thats severely wearing the outsides of the tires. The instructions did say the springs will settle, but this is too much. Did I do something wrong or will an alignment be able to correct the camber? I even loosened the 2 bolts at the knuckle and the 3 tower bolts and used a jack under the knuckle in an attempt to reduce the camber, but it'* still there!
Thanks for the help...but I don't see how the upper spring seat can be oriented incorrectly...I'll take some photos in the morning when there'* light.
The 2 plastic tabs fit into the 2 corresponding holes in the strut tower...and the cletus opening can only fit the knuckle one way.
I did notice the new spring in the Quick Struts has more turns than my old springs and the front is sitting higher than before...but I imagine the Park Avenue is probably one of the heavier cars for that strut so this also doesn't make sense.
Lastly, I also have noticeable toe-out.
-------------- original post with spellings corrected ------------
Hi, I replaced the front struts with Monroe quick struts (#171665 for a 2003 Park Avenue), but both left and right sides now have way too much positive camber thats severely wearing the outsides of the tires. The instructions did say the springs will settle, but this is too much. Did I do something wrong or will an alignment be able to correct the camber? I even loosened the 2 bolts at the knuckle and the 3 tower bolts and used a jack under the knuckle in an attempt to reduce the camber, but it'* still there!
#4
Wow, I didn't notice until I looked straight on from under the car, but there'* so much camber that the inside of the tire is actually not touching the pavement!
These photos are take with the car parked at the same location, on level ground, steering wheel straight.
These photos are take with the car parked at the same location, on level ground, steering wheel straight.
#6
I found the problem, but still need help with the solution.
The problem is the new Monroe Quick Struts has a slot for the bottom hole for the knuckle, whereas the original struct had just a hole. So basically the slot allows for camber adjustment. But how do I get leverage to pry the knuckle to get 0 camber?
The problem is the new Monroe Quick Struts has a slot for the bottom hole for the knuckle, whereas the original struct had just a hole. So basically the slot allows for camber adjustment. But how do I get leverage to pry the knuckle to get 0 camber?
#8
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I would take it in for an alignment and be done with it. For less than $100, you dont have to worry about it, and everything gets set right (toe, camber, and caster)
#9
I fixed the camber by pushing with my foot on the brake calipers inwards (which is in forward of the axle and also corrected the toe-out), and then used the tie down to keep this corrected position as I tightened the large 24mm nuts.
Randall, I agree and I will get alignment, but I think this had to be corrected or the alignment would not be able to overcome such a big mismatch.
Hope this also helps someone else who gets the quick struts.
I actually got the regular strut (#71665) and it has the hole, but I changed mind and got the Quick Struts (#171665) and the QUick Struts has the slot which introduced this problem.
Randall, I agree and I will get alignment, but I think this had to be corrected or the alignment would not be able to overcome such a big mismatch.
Hope this also helps someone else who gets the quick struts.
I actually got the regular strut (#71665) and it has the hole, but I changed mind and got the Quick Struts (#171665) and the QUick Struts has the slot which introduced this problem.
#10
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Good job
Sorry for the delay. Good detective work!! Looks like you have it all squared away. What i mean before was the upper spring seat, see picture, the black part. It needs to have the thin part facing the opening and the tab (my pinkie is pointing at it), facing towards the engine. I bring this up only because if it is wrong, the strut mount will fail and you will have to replace it again. Just check with your hand that the tab is facing the engine on both sides and it should be fine. Again, looks like you did a nice job.
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