The quality is just Cell Phone quality but the pictures get the message across plus getting the DSLR greasy is not high on my to do list.
To start off with I have been having issues with "Sandy" so after some digging and looking around and advice on another board it was decided that the valves were floating and the springs needed replaced. I am still on stock springs after 70K miles and with the higher ratio rockers i needed stiffer springs. I picked up the L76 springs and the retainers and locks as a more cost effective approach since I will be doing so much at once.
To start off here is the wide shot of the patient all torn down
if you notice the angle Iron that is for the mounting of the FMHE and will be adjusted later when everything is said and done.
This is the block off plate for the EGR( this is not the zzp plate just a simple home grown DIY block off that I made for a fraction of zzp price) nothing fancy just a close up for some newer members.
while in the same area there is the coolant T below the EGR that if you have time and a dremel or die grinder can be cut out or down to improve flow. Mine is cut all the way out and smoothed for greatest flow. If you look in the pic you also see that the coolant ports that feed the TB are blocked with a dime on each side. There are 2 ways to get the dime to seat down in there tight, the first is to sand the side of the dime down and use epoxy of choice to secure it either jb-weld or RTV. I used the RTV choice and had very little seepage so this time I used the second method, grabbed a bolt that had the same head size as the dime and tapped the dime that i had sanded the ridges down on into the hole with a hammer and it is sealed tight since aluminum gives and gave enough to allow the dime into the hole firmly. you can coat with RTV later if you so choose.
There has been question of space between the fan shroud and the headers with poly mounts. here is 2 pics of the clearance I have with poly dogbone mounts(round and square). headers are Pacesetter headers.
back to the egr delete topic, This is what the LIM looked like when it was installed over 40K miles ago
This is what the LIM looked like after nothing more then some wire wheel work on the gasket surface to remove the residue from the gasket. The only cleaning/ work to the opening of the LIM was a quick wipe out to remove the gasket material that had fallen or was flung into there from the wire wheel.
This is a picture of the bottom of the SC that has seen 40k+ miles egr less plus the 3Xk miles that were on it when I got it. Look at the lack of carbon build up on the outlet
In addition here is another point of reference, Look at the lack of build up on the blade of the throttle body and the cleanliness of the bore of the TB. The TB like the SC has not been touched to be cleaned.
I know that the topic of egr delete is very subjective but this is just my finding when I have gone through the car. I am not looking to start an argument on here just posting what i find and giving all the pertinent info for those who wish to go this route to consider( disclaimer: the egr is part of the emissions system and in some states with tests there is no way around keeping it. Remove at your own risk)
Rockers and springs and observations about those will be edited in tomorrow after it is completed
Water Pump died on this car so as a heads up you need to remove the power steering down and back to gain access to the one bolt that is perfectly in line with the power steering pulley.
This picture shows the area where the water pump goes with all the other surrounding accessories removed prepping for the rocker portion. The bolts at least on my car were quite rusted so be prepared to replace the bolts. there are 4 bolts that are bigger and are M8x1.25, Make sure to clean the threads and reapply sealant as they are in the coolant passage and can potentially weep coolant if not sealed.
On to the best part of the tear down and repair/ upgrade. the 1.9 in intense Gen V IC core and Frozen boost FMHE installation
I will update with more pics but this is the only pic I had of the core on my phone. This was mocked up in the basement of my old place using the other Gen V blower i had waiting to go on the 99 build.
This is the picture that makes me smile everytime I think about what this will do to the car. This is the Frozen boost 26x7x3.5 FMHE with the optional 7 inch fan that Frozen boost sells. I am debating how to wire the fan but I think I am going to piggy back it into the pump wiring which will be tapped into the key on power that way it runs full speed at all times to keep the coolant circulating at a constant speed to reduce the likelihood of heatsoak that using the switch from zzp would more then likely encourage.
Along with the lines and fittings I will be using this as a way to increase capacity and decrease the ambient temperature of the coolant by allowing more coolant and greater cooling properties. I used a stock coolant overflow from a 97-98 w body and will pushpin it into the stock location. The fittings are from lowes and are epoxied into the bottle to prevent leaks and maintain the greatest capacity.
This is a post just for Reference only and for others to consider when planning their own systems. I DO NOT take responsibility if you follow this and something doesn't work. Just use all this as food for thought.