The rack has some bushings I think they hardly ever go bad
I looked at mine I think I have a good amount of clearance
I was wondering about your sway bar end links some more
There is a chance also they were not tighten down all the way tell the thread stops
that could account also for the clearance problems

To me, it looks like the bar is upside down....

He said the curved part is facing up so unless the replacement bar is made wrong its installed correct

I pulled the sway bar completely out and reinstalled. While it didn’t completely solve the problem, it’* at the point I’ll live with it. Here’* a bunch of pictures and if anybody sees where there’* a problem let me know. The bar was installed with the “Driver’* Side Down” on the driver’* side so it was installed correctly.I tightened the bolts on the control arms first and then on the sub-frame. That cranked them down a little more and now it doesn’t hit until it gets near the threads on near the tie rod end. Normal driving I won’t be turning the wheels that far. I still don’t know why it would be hitting but???



I really appreciate the help, if I can return the favour let me know.

the sway bar bushings are not compressed at all you need to tighten them up a heck of a lot more untell there is no threads left

this is a picture of what you have
in this picture its upside down
notice the curve in the middle
and the ends are curved up
the curve HAS TO go up
not down
Amazon.com: Dorman OE Solutions 927-100 Replacement Sway Bar: Automotive

The sway bar has the label facing down when it’* installed, I don’t think it would go any other way. As far as the bolts, they are as tight as they will go. When I replaced them originally the, left side was tightened to the point the threads were stripped. Whatever is going on with that car was apparently bending the tie rod when the previous owner had it, and probably before she bought it. I took it to work yesterday and I felt the wheel jerk when I was turning around. As far as driving it was fine until I did a 90 degree turn, it felt like it was grabbing. I’m guessing that was the tie rod/sway bar causing that. I don’t know what else to check.

If I didn’t have so much into the car at this point I would get rid of it. I spent close to $1000 on new suspension, tires, brakes, and some other parts. It still has a bunch of probable electrical problems I haven’t had time to look at yet. The AC isn’t engaging, cruise sometimes functions, ABS is intermittent, air bag light is on, and the brake lines are very rusty. I don’t mind fixing it but if I can’t solve the suspension problem I don’t want to dig into the rest.

Are you saying had same problem with the factory sway bar?
does it look like it was hit hard
like wrench marks on the hood bolts and fenders?

No, that bar was on when I bought the car. The bar doesn't match the rest of the underside so I knew it had been changed. Whatever the problem is, I inherited it. I spent ten years selling cars, even ran a couple of used car lots in my younger days. I didn't catch everything, but usually could spot a wreck. I also have done all my own wrenching to nearly fifty years, everything from engine to tranny rebuilds so I won't swear I haven't screwed up a few things, but I don't think I did here but sure wish somebody would prove me wrong. This is driving me crazy, I would replace the rack but I don't see where that would increase the clearance. I'm thinking of cutting the spacer down a little and see if that helps, I don't want to change the tie rods again until I know where the problem is.

i have the basic same car and must have 3 or 4 inches of clearance i would at this point take off the sway bar and throw it in the trash
And get a factory used one from the yard
if you cant find a good one in PA i could get you one here in Texas
after all this i think the bar was BASIC MADE WRONG!!!!