The thing that makes me feel this voltage test for the MAF is inconclusive is that you say the reading stays at one value, and does not change at all, if this was the case the car would not accelerate or decelerate at all period.
I am not an electrical engineer, but I believe hertz is actually in an AC form, and when measured in DC it usually just shows 0, but I suppose it could just show one set reading at not change, since it cycles so quickly its variances cannot really be picked up as a DC voltage.
I am just going from things I have read, which I admit I do not totally understand, but in my research nowhere could I find that the hertz can be measured as a DC voltage, I am sure if you tested the MAF with a proper multimeter, set to display hertz, then you will see a variance in that frequency in relation to acceleration, and deceleration, I would not consider your MAF bad based on tests that site says are accurate.
Hopefully somebody with a better understanding of electricity, and hertz will post and provide better information than I have.
But until then I'd not waste money on a MAF thinking it is going to solve your problem.
Did you ever get MAF cleaner and clean the MAF like I suggested?
Did you ever test the MAP sensor?
As I said before, and as you should have read in the link to the writeup by Dan that I provided, a bad MAP could cause the problems you are describing, note that does not mean that is the problem, but it is a possibility, especially considering what you said about your mechanics comments in regards to your MAP sensor being negative..
Originally Posted by eb-86
Update : I fix the ATF leak , change filter and oil . I did a test drive today and after while the shifting start not goes smooth again .
If the fluid was not low when it was slipping this would not fix your problem, but having that leak fixed was something you needed to do regardless, and I am glad you got that problem taken care of.