Removing Ignition Switch Plug under dash (2002 Buick Regal0
#1
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Removing Ignition Switch Plug under dash (2002 Buick Regal0
Followed the instructions Ignition Switch Replace on this forum. Have removed and the 2 small plugs at the top of the steering column.
Used a 7mm socket on the plug under the dash and turned it counter clockwise until I hear it click meaning it is out of the threads on the under dash connector. The guide says to pry the center of the plug case while sliding it forward. It is sandwiched between 2 thin plugs which are for the multifunction switch. Guide says to slide it forward but I am not sure what that means. I have used a screwdriver and tried to pry it out of the connector but it does not want to move. I see the other side of the connecter has plastic tabs holding the other mating connectors but am hesitant to remove them.
Do I have to remove the top black thin connector and also the bottom thin grey connector to get the center Ignition Switch Plug connector out?
Also I see a yellow colored wire at the end of the Ignition Switch Plug that is about 12 gauge and cut off about 2 inches from the plug. Where would this wire go.
As of right now can not start the car at all and sometimes get the flashing lights on the dash and the power inoperative. Making up a resistor bypass for the VATS in case the lock cylinder pellet is not being read.
I am pretty handy fixing electrical and mechanical things and have done all the things necessary to remove the lock cylinder and the actual ignition switch but can't get the underdash plug out.
Used a 7mm socket on the plug under the dash and turned it counter clockwise until I hear it click meaning it is out of the threads on the under dash connector. The guide says to pry the center of the plug case while sliding it forward. It is sandwiched between 2 thin plugs which are for the multifunction switch. Guide says to slide it forward but I am not sure what that means. I have used a screwdriver and tried to pry it out of the connector but it does not want to move. I see the other side of the connecter has plastic tabs holding the other mating connectors but am hesitant to remove them.
Do I have to remove the top black thin connector and also the bottom thin grey connector to get the center Ignition Switch Plug connector out?
Also I see a yellow colored wire at the end of the Ignition Switch Plug that is about 12 gauge and cut off about 2 inches from the plug. Where would this wire go.
As of right now can not start the car at all and sometimes get the flashing lights on the dash and the power inoperative. Making up a resistor bypass for the VATS in case the lock cylinder pellet is not being read.
I am pretty handy fixing electrical and mechanical things and have done all the things necessary to remove the lock cylinder and the actual ignition switch but can't get the underdash plug out.
Last edited by bighank; 07-01-2015 at 04:44 PM.
#2
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SOLVED secret was prying both sides and it came apart.
Now I still don't know what the clipped heavy gauge wire on the car side is for. Someone wired a brown wire to the yellow heavy gauge wire and sent it thru the firewall. It leads to the front of the engine. I think this wire is the one going to the starter. Will jack car up tomorrow and see if I can find out where it goes.
Now I still don't know what the clipped heavy gauge wire on the car side is for. Someone wired a brown wire to the yellow heavy gauge wire and sent it thru the firewall. It leads to the front of the engine. I think this wire is the one going to the starter. Will jack car up tomorrow and see if I can find out where it goes.
#3
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Sounds like someone has added a remote start or some type of alarm system to the vehicle......when you pulled the hush panel on the driver'* side did you find a module with a harness to it, that didn't look like it belonged there?
And of course, the big question: Why are you replacing the ignition switch?
And of course, the big question: Why are you replacing the ignition switch?
#4
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As I suspected the wire lead to the solenoid terminal on the starter. Applied 12 volts and saw a large spark but starter did not run. Removed starter and applied 12 volts directly to starter and it ran. Solenoid pull in coil is defective. Removed solenoid and if applying 12 volts to it and pushing in the part that should engage the gear in the flywheel it will engage.
Did some junkyarding and got another starter. Will try to install the starter tomorrow.
Did some junkyarding and got another starter. Will try to install the starter tomorrow.
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Soft Ride (07-09-2015)
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