1996 Buick regal 3.8
190k
Replaced the heads, intake, gaskets, w/p, converter, new o.e. plugs, seals, all gaskets and such from the dealer.
All values on the scanner are normal and correct. Replaced all sensors from a known good car one at a time. Same problem doesn't change. Idle is perfect, driving is fine until the temperature starts to come up to normal, then it starts hesitating. My only question is the timing, at idle it'* approximately 27 degrees, during acceleration and driving range, It drops to a dead 9 degrees.

​​​​​​​Any viable input?

There is no adjustment for timing on this engine....I think what you are looking at is a restriction in your exhaust, possibly a partially plugged converter.......

The usual MO for testing this is:

With the engine at normal operating temp, LIGHTLY ACCELERATE from a dead stop....if the engine gradually gets up to speed and the transmission shifts ok, come to a stop...

This time from a dead stop, aggressively accelerate....if the car bogs down and doesn't even shift, my guess would be a plugged cat.....

The original converter was completely clogged. It came off immediately after the work was finished.
The timing is adjusted via the computer. So, since I'm obviously missing something, why is the timing dropping to such low numbers? Timing advance goes up with excelleration , not the other way around.
At this point I'm thinking either the crank sensor is a possible culprit or a knock sensor that hasn't completely died.
Anyone know of the crank sensor creating this issue?

The car shifts out fine through all gears, both in lite and heavy acceleration. As well, I cut the converter off and drove around without it to see if there was a difference.

No difference. Just loud

See if this applies to you....

I swapped the injectors and the fuel rail, including the regulator from my good donor car. That made no change.
Today however, I saw a tiny leak of exhaust by the egr tube from the exhaust manifold, so thinking I may be sucking in open air from the egr when open, I unplugged the egr. Drove the car hard, and the manifolds aren't glowing !!! The hesitation is slightly less but acts like a clogged fuel filter, which I'm going to replace tonight. I'm going to have to get those steel stamped egr tube gaskets as well.
​​​​​​​I'll post tomorrow any progress

I agree with Mike and Tech II . . .

What was the original issue with the car before replacing all that stuff?

Customer ran it until the water pump shaft literally ate through the water pump neck. Cracked one head, warped the other. The upper intake was already leaking and deteriorated from the coolant eating it. I was going to scrap it but had some things for it and was given good heads from a former shop I subbed for. Cost currently is the gaskets and fluids, and some minor things to clean up the interior.
I got on it hard tonight to see if the manifolds would turn red, and that apparently was fixed by unplugging the egr valve. Now it needs an engine, Or at least a lower end !!!!
If the damn car didn't look so decent, I'd scrap it tomorrow.
I'll find a donor that'* wrecked for an engine this week or it gets crushed next week.
****** luck ..........
Thanks anyhow folks

3800'* are a dime a dozen in junkyards. 2005 was the last year for the series 2 engines.

Ouch, poor car.

Agree with Mike, decent Series 2'* are pretty easy to come by in the yards, and a lot of them can have their odometer read without battery.