Hi,

I have tried a couple of Buick specific forums and the response rate is non existent, so I am hoping for better luck here.

Forgive the over detail. I have a 2011 Buick Regal, CXL 2.5L with 42K miles. I was having stall out issues and because the problem was at it'* worse at fill up, I narrowed it down to the evap purge valve solenoid. I purchased a new one but it turned out that the one suggested was a replacement for the valve near the tank and not the engine mounted valve. I am waiting for a replacement valve to arrive.

In the meantime, I managed to find a forum where the poster mentioned that as a stop gap measure, he simply "unplugged" the electrical connector to the valve and that things ran fine. I did this and sure enough the car started up beautifully and even ran smoother at idle.

Then upon start up on a couple of occasions (in the last couple of days), she chocked upon start up a little and stalled. I turned her over again and she started up fine and ran beautifully.

Here, however, is the real problem and I don't know if it is related to the valve or not. A couple of days ago, I fill her up (at that time had not found the disconnect power solution at this point) and all I hear is a click, no engagement at all. I sat there for 45 minutes trying a number of possible solutions to no avail. I decide to push the car to a spot away from the pump to just get it out of the way. I decide to try her one last time and she starts?

This morning I get in the car, she starts up fine, but later in the afternoon, I get back in and she gives me the same click. I move her, nothing. Then I decide to plug the electrical connection back into the purge valve and she starts. I pull the connector after start up because otherwise she runs poorly, idle etc.

Just an hour ago, after a meeting, I get the same click. I move her and plug the electrical connector back in, nothing. I jiggle the cable around (to the electrical connector) and get back in and she starts.

Would a bad valve cause the car not to even engage the engine, whereby I just get a clicking noise? Is it likely another issue, given that the same thing happens when the electrical connector is engaged or not? Can moving the car effect anything? Has anyone heard of this kind of issue?

If you have any ideas please help. I am at a loss. I have to use the car until the valve gets here.

Thank you all very much.

Sounds like a bad starter/connection at the starter.....bad evap valve will not cause the car not to crank.....

Take a test light and attach it to where the small purple wire attaches to the starter solenoid......if car doesn't crank, but light is bright with key in the crank position,, need a starter......

Tech II, thank you very much for the lightning quick reply. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it. I am not a mechanic, so I will have to figure out where the starter is. I hope that this is covered under an extended warranty. Man, this car only has 40k miles on it! I am sorry to quiz you even further but a starter wouldn't cause stalls mid drive or hard starts right (where she does turn over but doesn't catch)?

Two separate issues, correct?

Again, thank you so much for clearing this up for me. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

I forgot to mention that this only started happening after installing a new battery. Could this have impacted things?

Thank you!

No a starter would not cause those other problems.......

Has the vehicle been scanned for codes?

IF the not starting problem only began with the new battery, check if the post connections are tight. The cables, usually 2 connects a certain way before tightening them.

Hi tech II and Granpa, I ended up replacing the starter and the problem SEEMS to have been resolved. I did check the codes and it only pulled gas cap. I have also been using my spare key in the event that it might have been a security system issue. Will check back in to advise results after having driven her for a while. Thank you both for the assistance.