While working on my rear brake, I thought I would inspect the fuel filter on my 1989 Buick Sword Custom 3.8 L...

Wow...was I surprised...



This is going to be a "Bear"...to say the least... I'm thinking a complete rebuild due to the rust conditions & location of the other 'service line' present in the confined area...

Anyone else tackled a similar project...? Sources for good gasoline line & connectors...?

I'm thinking I may have to replace the return lines of gas to the tank (gas vapors & vacuum?)...not yet sure what all these might be or their condition...I just kinda back peddled when I got my 1st assessment....

Your thoughts & experiences will be greatly appreciated...

Break out the penetrating oil. Remember to turn the filter, not the nut on the fuel line.

You even sneeze on that thing the wrong way and your going to have a fuel leak.

If you remove the fuel filter, that line is more than likely going to twish and break.

Nobody sells direct replacement fuel lines that I know of, Napa offered me 3/8" brake line for a close replacement.

Your best bet, replace EVERYTHING between the tank and engine. I'm sure the metal lines coming out of the tank look the same way unless the sending unit was replaced recently.

I agree that this is going to be a mess.....I'm collecting info., reading posts & the vehicle repair manuals from GM, FoMoCo & Audi that I have access to....some help there.

The 1991 Lincoln Town Car "CEO" (Exec.) factory repair manual describes several pages w/diagrams for their repair/replacement suggestions on the pressure lines, return lines & vapor canister returns...They mention back then that they strongly recommended & supplies the nylon (5/16th) tubing instead of any metal-steel or other materials. Most of the nylon 'sections' were available w/special 'push-on' connectors. They also showed special 5 barbed brass looking splicing connectors.

I think I'll continue to look along these lines for a new 'spliced' nylon 5/16th inch fuel system lines...I'll post my progress w/photos when possible...

Thanks for the help & suggestions...

I don't particularly like the concept of having to use steel fuel replacement lines that will require using the flaring tools. I have used the flaring tools to repair my brake lines several times. Now that'* a PITA...You have to be very careful when making the flare to match the receiving nuts...if you don't have the proper amount of pressure applied...it'* a cut-it-off...re-do....sometimes in a tight space or w/difficult to handle 'modeled-shaped' steel tubing...w/out kinking the tubing section...

Just not interested in revisiting that system/method if I can avoid it....!!!

I hear ya, Iv'e been investigating using nylon vs steel. Guy at Napa said to only use nylon for short runs(from tank to main line). Something about bursting the nylon lines. ??? I dunno.

I do know that Napa has a 25ft nylon kit. What it consists of for connectors, I don't know.

That'* a great start....I'll check them out.

My 1994 Olds Cutlass Ciera has nylon fuel lines...standard....way back then...!!!

I got a driver-side, front tire blowout in Jan. ....I got out to check it out....preparing to change tires but ........oopppssss...no spare...!!! Got my insurance co. to pick-up my tow delivery to my home....

(here'* the story connection)...when preparing to get it ready for the 'lorry'...I found gasoline leaking a fine mist from around the drivers front door zone...???

The blowout (tire flapping) had nicked both pressurized supply line & the return line to the tank...!!! So there are reasons for 'steel gasoline lines'....

Regardless, I still like the ideas & workability of the nylon lines so far....we'll see...

When my Buick Century had fuel leak I replaced the steel fuel lines with cupro-nickel tubing. Much easier to work with than steel and wont rust. I've lost count of the number of brake pipes I replaced with cupro-nickel, a few miles I'd guess.