So yesterday, I finally decided to give my couch a rest, and get the 93 Park Avenue back in service that was parked for a leaking heater core.

I was first made aware of this hose in my internet searches:

Gates 18743
More Information for GATES 18743
I figured I could make it work by flaring the small end and working it on.

Then I went down to AutoZone, and discovered this part while looking at their hose rack, which was a whole $2 cheaper even:

Dayco 70553
The 7/8" end appears to be simply the last inch of a 3/4" sized hose that has been flared out and made bigger.

I chopped the flare off, making that side a little shorter than the other, and simply put it between the two heater pipes. It worked out perfectly, because the two heater pipes in this application are offset a bit anyway. Hoseclamps, refill, air bleed, done. I chose to leave the heater hoses attached to the heater core, mainly so I don't lose them, because they are so hard to get replacements for in this application. They stay at the firewall, and are not in any danger of getting caught up in anything.

I believe this should work for any C/H body L27. I couldn't find this information anywhere on the internets, so I am sharing it now so that it may help others in the future. I don't know if this info will span to other engines (LN3, L36, or L67), but if it does, please feel free to throw your two cents in on it.

I do know, however, that the W-body L27 is configured differently in this regard, and will need to have a different approach taken.

I did take a couple of pics, but they really don't tell much, other than it'* out of the way of everything.

So you bypassed the heater core altogether?

Yessir, at least for the time being. I was a bit chapped when my third unit failed, and with spring being here, summer is just around the corner, so I won't be missing it for quite some time.

Ahh yeah, makes sense to say F it for a while then.

At least he doesn't have to remove the entire dash assembly and RHS fender to change a heater core out.

Holy moly, what vehicle requires all that to come off?

I wanted to throw in a quick afterthought on this. Air is catching the disconnected heater hoses, and causing a whistling/whooshing through the dash, especially with a cross wind.

Either cap or pull the heater hoses, and your sanity will thank you.

That is all.

Would it not have been easer to use these in 5/8 and 3/4?
Dorman Cooling Bypass Caps 02254 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Every part store has them

Both heater hose pipes on the L27 are 3/4. Some have reported issues in some engines when the heater lines are blocked off. I didn't want to take a chance on possible overheat or cap blowout issues on a car that only has an idiot light (no gauge) to tell me that the engine has overheated, so I went down the safe road.

Rjolly, think Mike is talking about Blazers/*-10'*....