50 hours a week at work and that was the night I decided to work on it after work and didnt get in the house until 6am...

Well at least I didnt screw up and burn the car down with the wiring

It'* surprising you found that tube with carb cleaner. I'll typically tell everyone to pull it because most of the time the cleaner won't get down there.

One way I plug them for a clean look is take the retainer piece you pulled back to see it off and put some RTV around the hole, put a penny on the rtv and tighten down the retainer piece. It'* a pretty clean way and all you have to find is a penny.

You'll find a little less MPG and hotter cylinder temps with the EGR disabled. however you need to consider when the EGR would be enabled to fully appreciate that is only while cruising and not when under acceleration/WOT.

If you want to reenable the EGR, I find those tubes at JY'* for a couple of bucks. Just check a couple and you'll find a good one. Hit up your local yard, overall they shouldn't be an overly pricing item and since every S2/S3 3800 has one, they are plentiful.

Good to know. I might just grab one the next time I'm at a yard. Couldn't hurt a whole lot I figure.

When you delete it, you need to tune for it. Timing tables, some adder tables etc expect it to be there. It'* no worry to remove, as long as you tune.

By me saying that i"m not going to do the work for you, what I was trying to imply was that you should look at another stock tune with the injectors you have and compare your injector table. When we upgrade or change injectors etc, you simply start by pasting in the table from a vehicle that had those injectors. Then there'* the other school of thought. that if you have a 33 lb injector that youprogram it straight across on all the cells.

Timing tables need to be altered when you remove EGR? That'* something I haven't heard of before... Also haven't heard of the adder tables. I wish someone would have mentioned it earlier. Sounds like a better bet for me now would be to just get one to put back in just due to simplicity.

What do you mean by programming them straight across on all the cells? Setting them all to be 33lb, or in this case 36lb (given the fuel pressure on the L67 rail)? Why are the numbers different on each cell from the factory? They range from 36.x to 38.x.

That'* because of all the other stuff in the programming. Therefore GM adjusted the injector flow through that table. Depending on how your programming is done, that can have many different effects.

There are many things to learn about tuning and programming before just grabbing a tuner and making a change. You may want to do a lot of reading on the HPT forum to learn about the various things that the EGR being disabled can effect. Overall you can disable it and most things will be ok, but there are part throttle items etc that get effected.

It'* like timing. If you want things to be the best you toss in the 05 GTP timing tables and tune the car fully. That gives you great mpg etc and a well tuned car.

Where does one get those 05 GTP timing tables? Is there some place full of stock tunes that you can download and pick through?

Got this baby tuned almost exactly how I want it. All LTFTs are between 1 and -2 so I just need a couple more hours of driving around to get those registered accurately and locked in at 0, and I copied the spark tables from a 2005 GTP, which are considerably more aggressive, went out and did some WOT runs, and got absolutely NO KR whatsoever, but damn does it pull hard like a bat out of hell, and that'* still with the 100lb sub in the trunk. I'm going to advance spark at WOT a little more since its at 14 degrees now and I want to see if I can take that a little higher. Its a whole new animal compared to the video I posted earlier. I'm going to have to get another video soon.

Well I spoke too soon. Apparently I should be hitting over 100kpa on a boosted motor. I'm not hitting over 80...

Nevermind. Turns out I have a 1 bar map sensor since I'm on an L36 PCM.