Fuel level Sensor Replacement
#1
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Fuel level Sensor Replacement
Gas gauge going crazy found out fuel sensor level thingy is bad. if possilble how easy is replacement for a DIY? and where is it location on PA 97?
#2
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Certified GM nut
here are a couple videos. the exact same process applies to the park ave, as they have the same body as the bonneville.
#3
Senior Member
I watched the video.....
Good video, very informative if you have never done one......but a couple of things....
The relay that he removed was the fuel pump relay....I don't think he mentioned it by name....by starting the car with it out, this relieves the fuel pressure, so you won't get fuel squirting with much force when you remove the fuel lines from the module.....
I disagree on his assumption, you can get any fuel sender....you want the correct kit because the correct kit will have a new/correct seal for the module when you put it back in the tank.....
I like to use the special tool for that lock ring......as he noted, there can be a lot of dirt there......suck it out with a vac if possible, and if that ring is rusted bad, it would be a good idea to spray penetrant around the ring....if you don't have the special tool, I recommend using a brass drift to hammer the ring off...careful, don't bend the "ears"....
I recommend doing it outside and with a fan blowing air into the trunk....the fumes can be quite bad.....
One thing I noticed, he had a slight problem getting the module out of the tank.....this happens from time to time, where the round "bowl" of the module can "warp"...when this happens, you have to "finesse" it out of the opening....
As for the sender, I have never taken the center contact off and just replaced that....I replace the whole sender....don't know why he would do it that way....
He doesn't go into installation back into the tank, but make sure the area where the new seal will go(I coat it with petroleum jelly to aid in installation) is free of dirt.....put the module in....there is a protruding notch that lines the module up with the tank, so it only does in one way....add the lock ring, and you push the module downward(spring loaded), so the notch lines up and the seal is in place, and then you turn the lock ring.....attach the two harnesses and two fuel lines........pull on the two fuel lines to make sure they are locked(double check the "ears" of the plastic retainers that there is a gap between them and the lines of the module)....don't put the cover on......install relay......cycle the key several times(5 seconds between off to on) to get fuel pressure up.....then start the vehicle....check the lines for any leaks at the module.....then put the cover on.....
Good video, very informative if you have never done one......but a couple of things....
The relay that he removed was the fuel pump relay....I don't think he mentioned it by name....by starting the car with it out, this relieves the fuel pressure, so you won't get fuel squirting with much force when you remove the fuel lines from the module.....
I disagree on his assumption, you can get any fuel sender....you want the correct kit because the correct kit will have a new/correct seal for the module when you put it back in the tank.....
I like to use the special tool for that lock ring......as he noted, there can be a lot of dirt there......suck it out with a vac if possible, and if that ring is rusted bad, it would be a good idea to spray penetrant around the ring....if you don't have the special tool, I recommend using a brass drift to hammer the ring off...careful, don't bend the "ears"....
I recommend doing it outside and with a fan blowing air into the trunk....the fumes can be quite bad.....
One thing I noticed, he had a slight problem getting the module out of the tank.....this happens from time to time, where the round "bowl" of the module can "warp"...when this happens, you have to "finesse" it out of the opening....
As for the sender, I have never taken the center contact off and just replaced that....I replace the whole sender....don't know why he would do it that way....
He doesn't go into installation back into the tank, but make sure the area where the new seal will go(I coat it with petroleum jelly to aid in installation) is free of dirt.....put the module in....there is a protruding notch that lines the module up with the tank, so it only does in one way....add the lock ring, and you push the module downward(spring loaded), so the notch lines up and the seal is in place, and then you turn the lock ring.....attach the two harnesses and two fuel lines........pull on the two fuel lines to make sure they are locked(double check the "ears" of the plastic retainers that there is a gap between them and the lines of the module)....don't put the cover on......install relay......cycle the key several times(5 seconds between off to on) to get fuel pressure up.....then start the vehicle....check the lines for any leaks at the module.....then put the cover on.....
#5
Senior Member
Most kits come with the specific seal for the gas tank of your car, a WHOLE level sender/harness, and some include a new float.......
In that video, for some reason the guy in the video took the sender apart, and used just the main contact...why? Use the whole sender....just plug and play....
In that video, for some reason the guy in the video took the sender apart, and used just the main contact...why? Use the whole sender....just plug and play....
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01-01-2012 04:04 PM