I have a 2001 Buick Lesabre Custom. Friday afternoon, every switch in the driver'* door worked perfectly - Mirrors, Locks, Lock-out, Windows, Trunk.. all the switches in the driver'* master switch worked for all doors and all windows.

Saturday morning.. nothing works from the driver'* door - No windows - no locks - no mirrors. The windows and locks do work fine from each of the other door switches.. just not the driver'* switches.

All the locks, and trunk, work fine with the remote fob.

The driver'* door is receiving some power, as everything illuminates perfectly and the illumination goes off when the door is closed (ignition off). No problems with interior illumination or exterior lamps.

I haven't pulled the rear cushion to check the fuse yet. I can't get to that until this Saturday morning.

I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the DDM - a master switch I can handle. The DDM is just too great an expense for me at this time.

Thanks in advance,

John

As you mentioned check the fuses. Your owners manual should have the fuse diagrams.
I wonder if a connection inside the drivers door may be the problem?
You would have to take the door panel off to inspect though.
The driver'* door module also comes to mind for sure.

Thank you. My owner'* manual is very helpful - I was able to easily find the fuse panel'* location. Shows fuse position #7 for the driver'* door - will check that first thing Saturday morning. While I'm in there, I'll pull the other seat cushion to inspect the battery cables - bought this car used about 6 weeks ago and want to replace the current battery and coolant just to be on the safe side.

Since all the illumination for all the switches is working fine, I'm hoping it'* not the module. I don't know if the module supplies the lighting for the switches or not.

This might help:

This might help:

Thank you!

Does this indicate the driver'* door switch'* illumination is controlled through a BCM and not the DDM?

All lighting of switches in doors is controlled by the I/P Dimming module.....

What I don't like is, is the power for the driver'* side mirror comes from the DDM.....I doubt your mirror switch and door switches went at the same time.....so if you have all the power and grounds to the DDM, then I think the DDM may be your problem.......

Ahh.. OK. This fits.

I have no tools for testing these connections, so when I rule out the master switch I'll just have to save up for that DDM and the dealer'* labor for installation. I'm lucky, my driver'* window is in the up position.

Thanks

Well, I made a little progress today. I got the rear seat cushion out - popped right out like it was designed that way

I checked the 10 Amp mini-fuse for the Driver'* Door Module - looks brand new - not blown. The AC-Delco 100PS battery and cables also look brand new. The only spot I could see was a small blob of corrosion on the floorpan at the battery'* corner - on the front side away from the cable side posts. Possibly a drip from the vent tube. I jiggled the tube a little and it was firmly attached - also appeared brand new. The red cover for the positive cable was off - I repositioned it.

Man.. that OEM battery is 770 CCA ! With it looking (and behaving) like a new battery, I'll spare myself the $100+ just to be sure replacement - for now. I'll put that toward replacing the coolant - which there'* no telling how long that'* been in there - parts of the reservoir are almost black on the inside.

I've still got to buy my new pair of electricians needlepoint pliers, then I'll rig a small jumper to check out the driver'* door lock function.

Onto the switch..

I bought a single wire probe and tested the driver'* door switch at the harness connector'* cavities. The wire colors matched the above schematic posted by Tech II, but they were not in the same configuration as the above schematic.

I probed BLK/WHT to RED/BLK (lock).. then BLK/WHT to ORN/BLK (unlock) - there was no continuity light either way and the actuator did not operate in either connection. Then, just to make sure my probe was ok, I used a small paper clip to jump the same connections.. still no actuator function in either jump.

Just to be sure, I repeated all the above, ignoring the wire colors. I followed the terminal positions indicated in the above schematic - C to D = Lock and C to E = Unlock ... still no actuator operation.

Looks like the next step is to look for a short or break in the harness feeding the driver'* door. I don't know how to proceed on that one yet. Hoping someone will lead me through it.

Thanks so far