Thanks FireBird,
Even with some things I have done to my car electrically that may not require me to unhook the battery I always do so because I am paranoid, in fact I have unhooked my battery so many time recently I wonder how bad of a thing that is. I am deff on the right track. You are right there are at least 3 or 4 pink wires down there (repeat colors) so I will follow the wire to fog relay to make sure (maybe I can use a voltmeter). Fuse taps are a great idea, this may sound quite ghetto but I usually just strip the end of a wire and wrap around the top of a relay pin after I squished the copper with vicegrips. This way I don't mess up the pin holes in my fuse block (the copper does not go into pin hole ut makes contact with pin) while still stealing a connection.

Going into my wire cluster is the last thing I wanted to do but if it must be done it must be done and I have seen success going this route, big wire clusters are scary. I must say I have tried and looked at many alternatives to this to no avail. Thanks again for the help, where there is a will there is a way and I will get this done so the deer have to wear sunglasses. I think I will be driving Buick Regals (OLDER MODELS!) for the rest of my life after all the knowledge I've gained up to this point thanks to people like you and myself, being 22 thats prolly sad. I will be sure to let you know what goes on and when i'm done i'll make it my signature pick.

Since I am new to participating in the forum if there is anything formal I need to do to thank you on the forum please let me know FireBird.

just let me know if it works. the forum is quite a help to many. i saved a ton on my cars looking up things on here because the issues you are having most times others have had before. so if i can help in my way it makes me feel like im paying the forum back. so its sort of a perpetual thing

correct me if i am wrong; but couldnt you just splice the bright light 12v+ wire into the fog light 12v+ wire with a diode so whenever your brights are on, your fogs also come on but not vice versa? just a thought.

then your hids would go off momentarily while they switch, and you want solid power for those for bulb life

Yes you are right, i'm trying to make it so fogs essentially never shut off because they are H.I.D. Xenon. I have a piece of tape over my DRL sensor on my dash so my lights just come on all the time, I figure H.I.D.* lasted way longer than halogen so why not.

Now if there was a easier way to just keep my fogs on all the time without giving me an option to turn them off by the switch, I would not mind this because my lights are on all the time anyway. I figure it could never hurt to have my fogs on all the time or my lows, but it would certainly hurt to have the highs on all the time!

ElTaterToto and/or Firebird,
For several reasons I am deciding to go the route of just feeding my 12v+ high beam wire with a diode to my 12v+ fog light wire tonight. Even if the fog lights blink on/off for a second this does not matter because my brand H.I.D. fogs dont need to warm up once they have already been on, they will go straight back to full power unless you leave them off for too long (more than 5 seconds or so).

From my understanding i will need to get the pink wire from the headlight wire cluster and connect this with a diode to the 12v+ fog wire which his purple. Do i keep the fog relay wire (orange) grounded as you instructed earlier? I am assuming yes, but i was baffled when i connected my 12v+ low beam wire in headlight cluster to 12v+ fog light wire thinking this would be easy fix (lows and fogs would simply be onn together all the time). The fogs came on with car off meaning low beam wire is hot when car is off, combined with my permanent ground to fog relay/bcm this gives both a 12v feed and ground to fogs with car off.

I know the low beam and high beams share the same ground, i used a relay switch for my quad hi modification to give my low beams a permanent ground while the high beams are engaged. The lows and highs do not share the same 12v+ feed so im assuming the lows have permanat 12v+ feed with car off but highs do not which is why the high beam wire to fog wire with diode will work?

you cant just hook the hids to your high beam circuit, initial draw on these when warming up is much higher than running and the high and low beam circuits will blow fuses because they were only designed to supply those lights

Makes sense! This is why the 12v+ feed to fog relay method we previously discussed has not been working! I was trying to use a feed from low beams to power the feed to fog lamp relay (in fuse box) resulting in blown headlamp fuse... as you just said its becuase H.I.D. use more power on initial power up which i was not taking into account.

I could not think of another good 12v+ feed that provides 12v+ only when the car is on, i thought low beams were good idea but it resuts in blown fuses.

It seems i need a relay harness for my H.I.D. fogs if i go the diode route hooking the high beam wire to fog wire, while keeping the permanat groudn to my fog netween fog switch and bcm?

If i go the route we previously discussed can you please reccoment a 12v+ feed that i draw from to give a 12v+ feed to fog relay(in fuse box) only when key is on? I tried several combinations but i know i must have not been choosing good/correct feeds (low beams.... cough).



It seems my

for key on power, dont hold me to it, but i think the power drop is key on only. travis may be able to pop in on this one. from what i understand, it is under the hush panel on the passenger side of the dash. on the w bodies gm just decided to put a random fused circuit not attached to anything and leave the plug to hang in the wind. the girlfriends impala has it too.

Yeah, you could use that Power Drop. It'* basically just a connector taped to a wiring harness that nothing plugs into. You can run a wire to your fog light relay harness (less load on the circuit, just in case)