Jimmy I can't help I never had any codes show up. My car is working good now and haven't had a problem since. worrying about the tranny now.
I have a few good impacts and they didn't move the crank bolt any at all, I was leer about using starter also. After trying it, just a bump, only once and check to see if it is loose mine was a second bump may just run it all the way out and that could send bars and sockets flying so just one quick bump is all you want to do, mine was finger tight after the bump. I will never use a impact to take one off again. I set my 1/2 breaker bar 1" from the frame in front of car bumped it once. So fast an easy.
I forget so much anymore, I won't know nothing before long.
Only works for removing the bolt, it will not work to tighten the bolt. In case anyone is wondering. work safely, it don't pay to get hurt.

Yep the starter method is the way to go. One of my buddies told me that he uses this method on old Volvo 240s and it work on them too. I finally got it off the first time I dissassembled the pulley/dampener with and 700 ft/lb impact wrench but only after hammering on it for a long time and jamming the ring gear with a big screw driver. It was an awful lot of work compared with the starter method. I wont ever do with an impact wrench again.

I will try again today I was too tired yesterday. My scanner i think shows live data. Maybe it is a hot soak thing and it will start today. It is supposed to be cool today. I will update later.

Ok time for the update: I tried starting the Buick and it did start and run for a bit before dieing. It did something that it did not do before. Just before it quit it seemed to be missing a pair of cylinders mainly at idle. Revving the engine seemed to smooth it out. It ran for a very short time maybe 3 or 4 minutes and I was unable to find the correct data stream though my high end Actron will display a lot of data stream information. After it quit I was able to restart it a couple of times for short periods less than a minute and then it would not restart. Trouble code is the accursed P0142. I think I will review all actions taken with this car to see if someone recognizes a pattern. Thanks to all that have contributed. This GM Forum has been very helpful to me.

I think there was an RPM indication of about 825 rpms but not sure what happened exactly when it died but today I will find out.

Here is what I have done to fix the problem. It is likely to have failed for a couple of years. The SES light used to come on and then go out on long trips or initially be off and come on with the first hot restart.Gradually it stayed on more and more until it was on all of the time. Starting cold became more difficult. Temp sensor was replaced and wires to it. The thermostat was changed. Most of the vacuum lines were replaced. I bought an Actron scanner that would scan 94-95 Buick Le Sabres. The code most often given was 0342. The cam pos sensor was replaced and the wiring was checked out OK with no effect. The old cam pos. sensor was reinstalled with no effect. The trigger magnet was in place on cam gear. Continued.

The Ig.Cont.mod. was replaced with no effect on code 0342. The SES light blazed continuously. Detecting slop in the timing chain and gears I replaced them with new. It did seem that starting was somewhat easier but as it got colder starting was more difficult. A lower radiator hose heater was fitted resulting in easier cold starts. In Feb. the engine stalled at about 25mph and would not restart. It did restart cold. The Crankshaft Pos. Sensor was replaced and the wiring was checked good for continuity. It did seem to start up better than it had but the scanner still read 0342 and the SES light was on. Continued.

The engine ran only for a short while and then died and was able to restart but quickly died. What was new was that there seemed to be a miss that preceded the stall. giving more throttle seemed to make it go away but the miss came back at idle. What I will do today is check the rpm when it dies and I will also reinstall the original ignition control module to see if my replacement has failed during all of this. Failing this I will reinstall the new cam positon sensor and check to see if that magnet is still in place and the wiring is ok.

Thanks to all.

i would look for a loose pin on the connector, take the wire out of the harness and make sure its good. code description says if your starting system is bad or battery is weak you can get that code.

Thanks for answering so quickly. Which connector are you referring to? Ig. Control? Cam pos? Crank pos.?
The battery is strong for a 3 year old. Replaced the alternator about 2 years ago. Never had an issue with cranking since replacing the alternator. Voltage is about 14 when charging.