Now that is an interesting technique for busting loose that harmonic balancer bolt! On my car the bolt was on so tight I wonder if this technique would have worked. However I used a air impact wrench good for 700+ lb ft of torque and I almost didn't get it off with that.On the Ignition Control Module (ICM) if there is a dedicated ground wire to it this will probably not be the problem but if there is not a dedicated ground corrosion can be a problem. Also the back will not corrode if there is heat sink compound on it as the directions for replacing the ICM indicates is required for a sound repair. When I replaced my ICM there was little corrosion and no heat sink compound On the old ICM and no change in the problem. In other words I have a perfectly good spare ICM now.

I got something wrong, I have only jacked the car up put stands under. an removed the belts now it won't turn over, do I have to have the belts on to get the car to turn over? or the front tire on? Im wanting to try bumping the starter to break balancer bolt loose. been workin on a friends all day so just getting back to my problem bolt. I never have liked harmonic balancers, their always a pain, may see if I can rent a bigger impact my 1/2 ain't doing it.

I don't think that the belts need be on to turn over the engine. Sounds like you disconnected the battery or you somehow disturbed one of the connections to the ground. check the solenoid to see what is missing when you turn the key to turn it over. You could use a remote starter switch to accomplish the bolt removal but you should try to find out why it won't turn over. I understand there is a ground bus near the feet of the driver that often causes various troubles. I have not yet located this
on my car but I is probably worth the time to explore and find this bus because bad grounds have caused many troubles. One of my many colleagues used to say that electronics is the science of bad connections.
This V6 engine needs the harmonic balancer and the counter-rotating balance shaft which I think your 97 has. There is an imbalance in this V6 as it is a 90 degree design. If it were a 72 degree design it would be smoother. The engine was in production from the 50s to 05. I once had a 62 Buick V6 back in the 1970s.

my guess is bad engine ground. if i remember right, its near the starter on the front/bottom of the engine. this may fix your problem.

Jason good one just looked down there an the wire is almost pulled out of a crimped connector covered with oil, will solder a connector on if I can clean it up enough or replace wire if its too badly oil soaked. I want ta play not work on this .lol thanks

okay update time. it went from cranking no start, no spark. got it up on jack stands tire off can't get balancer bolt off. went to try using starter motor with breaker bar on bolt to get it loose . then motor wouldn't turn over lights all working no cranking. cleaned up starter to test it out still no crank. few days other matters. tonight I go out to start testing put key in, just to check that it wouldn't do anything and I turned it, it cranks over an starts right up like nothing was ever wrong? whats up? I didn't change or do anything. could it have anything to do with the security system? Im getting to old to learn new stuff lol voodoo? could starter be going? that wouldn't of shut it down while driving. well I will put it back together and get it out while the mud is frozen. any ideas of what maybe going on? thanks

You seem to have connection problems all over the place......

Did you ever take the neg and pos cables of the battery, and check for corrosion on the connections? Did you ever fix that battery ground connection? Check all the connections at the starter solenoid?

Look at the SECURITY light...turn the key to "on"(don't crank).....does the light go out after three seconds? If it doesn't, then you have a security problem....if it does, and then you try to crank the vehicle and it doesn't crank, then you have to check the Purple wire to the "*" terminal of the starter solenoid, for power with the key in the crank position....if you have power, bad solenoid/starter....no power, then you have to trace that circuit backwards from the starter.....this circuit goes through the transmission switch, starter enable relay, and the ignition switch....

I agree with Tech II on the connections. From what you have said there is a bad connection in the two circuits that run the starter motor. And you will have to check each connection. I would bet on the solenoid circuit being the culprit without being there to witness fine points. This can be done with a voltmeter or a test light and either a remote starter switch or an assistant turning the ignition switch. You look for a big voltage drop across one of the connections. When you find it you have found the bad connection.

Don't know about the Security issue is that a problem with the little resister in the ignition key and the related electronics in the ignition switch and computer?

update; car died again 4 miles from home. it will turn over has fuel under pressure to rail, but no spark, starter area is clean with good contacts an wires. snowing an cold right now.
did this first time it would turn over, then it wouldn't turn over after cleaning connections it started right up half a dozen times then shuts down while coasting to a stop. found some questionable vacuum lines replaced them no change. going to pull, ignition control module, check for corrosion? I understand that crank sensor wouldn't of let it restart to then fail again if it was bad? Im going to reread this thread an see if I missed any suggestions. thanks for helping out.

so when it quits it wont turn over? by that i mean starter engaging? if thats the case i would be looking at both sides of the big ground and power cables and taking them out, cleaning to bare metal, and reinstalling, battery terminals too