Makes no sense at all to me. After installing a new radiator and water pump the other day, I took my '89 Skylark 2.5L (200K miles) for a test drive and checked for any leaks. No problem. Drove it to work 5 miles that night. No problem. Was about 34 degrees that morning when I started it to go home and it idled really high and stalled a couple of times when I was backing out of the parking space. As I went down the road, it sputtered and hesistated and I had to limp home at around 45 miles and hour. I had two codes and looked them up in my shop manual...22 being low voltage on the TPS and 34 being low air flow detected on the MAF sensor. One probable cause is open or a short to ground on the gray wire 416 or 417 to both of these sensors. If not this, where should I go next? Thanks.

Re-check all of your wiring. Any grounds you might have knocked loose while pulling/installing the radiator.

Thanks Mike. I went back and checked all the wiring and visually nothing looks wrong. I should have added earlier that when it was racing that morning before all this started, I gave it some gas to try to stop the racing (just an old habit from driving cars with carbs). I wonder if something happened internally to the TPS when I did this.

I would go back over the connections that you had to remove to change the radiator; unplug them and back in, etc. Even if a ground wire/strap is tight, take it off and clean the mating surfaces. The thing with wiring is the makers try to use as little of the stuff as possible, so a wire goes here and splices into this area and that wire splices into this one, etc. So recheck what you took lose when replacing the radiator even if you think it is unlikely.

I like to thank the both of you, especially you Kimberly! You were right about the "makers" using as little of the stuff as possible when it came to wiring. Since I found I had a bad strut in my '94 Dodge Spirit, I had to get the Skylark going (it had been sitting all winter since I had the above problems). I started it up and when moving the wires around going to the MAP sensor, I noticed a change in RPM. When I took the sensor off the air filter housing, the engine ran crappier. I then killed the engine, took the wire connectors to the TPS and MAP sensors loose and pushed them down through the way they were routed through the intake manifold in front of the throttle body. Someone in engineering had a brain fart when they did that. The wires in their protective covering or plastic conduit are laying against a hot manifold! Half of the covering was missing so I took it all off and found a black wire with an orange stripe branched with a metal crimp, going to both the TPS and MAP. I taped that splice up good, found another section of covering to put the wires in, put everything back together, and the car started up, runs fine, and no more check engine light! There'* barely enough length on the wires going to the MAP sensor without putting strain on them, though. Once again, thanks!

You are more than welcome, we all try to help in what little way we can.