William, sorry the hid install is not going smoothly. Are these lights not from China?
Maybe cheapo capacitors! I would leave the battery charger off and just turn lights on without starting for initial testing.
Since I started this thread, I think it is fine that we are now discussing HID. Not at all off topic because bright vehicle lighting is what we are trying to achieve.

These lights are from China. This company offers lifetime warranty on their kits though. So, if he blows a bulb or ballast they'll replace those for free.

Thanks, I hope by sharing, and eventually figuring this out, that it may save somebody from having that error code eliminator explode on them, if you had your face near it I could see it taking out an eye easily.

Yes I got them from DDM Tuning, and the next time I test them I'm disconnecting the battery maintainer, I really do not think that it caused it after learning that the error code eliminators are known to explode on vehicles with reversed polarity wiring for their lighting system.

Yea I just seen where they mention sending them a pic of the exploded error code eliminator, along with the order number, I'm sure they will replace it for me, I may still order two more of those just in case, as it takes a bit to get them here, if another blows I want to be able to continue working on it, and not have to wait another two-three weeks.

Now I am a bit unsure if I reversed the polarity in the right place, I read that they say you simply plug in the input plug connector backwards, and tape it to help hold it.
I thought since it was so easy to reverse the pins themselves at the error code eliminator , that it was where I was supposed to reverse them, as the lights did come on one at a time, usually always on one side, but once it switched to the other one instead of the usual one that lit up.
Attached are pics of the clip on the error code eliminator.



http://www.ddmtuning.com/support/ind...cleid=26&nav=0
Now here is where I get a bit confused, this is a link with info saying if no lights work you can have reversed polarity, the thing is one worked, and the error code eliminator exploded, so it leaves me wondering just where the polarity could be wrong, now I am assuming it is at the cars wiring harness end, and that instead of reversing the pins on the one I have left like I did, I think I should have just plugged in the cars light harness connector backwards into the error code eliminator, which hooks into the ballast.
If their system is all wired correctly, then it makes sense to only reverse polarity where the cars wiring harness hooks into the HID wiring harness.

Here is info from their site on similar issues as mine.

""One side doesn’t turn on reliably or at all: This is likely caused by a defective bulb, ballast or an issue with the stock wiring (available power). To identify the responsible component, please swap bulbs or ballasts from one side of the vehicle to the other; if the problem follows one component then that is the part responsible for the failure. If all of the components prove to be functional on one side of the vehicle then you likely have a powering problem on the side that is failing; this will likely be corrected by installing an accessory HID harness.

Intermittent firing for both sides: If it takes multiple on-off cycles to get the HIDs to turn on, you may have a powering issue, which is often resolved by the installation of an accessory HID harness. Also, sometimes increasing the headlight fuse by 5 amps solves the problem.
If you have an HID Harness (whether it'* an accessory or H/L harness) installed and are still getting intermittent firing, double check your power and ground cable connections.""

I am pretty sure that it should not be a power issue, I have their HID harness installed, I have the fused side on the positive, and the not fused on a body ground point.


Here is a link to a list of Cars/trucks/motorcycles that have common issues with HID / LED, seems like quite a few have reversed polarity..
http://ddmtuning.com/support/index.p...eid=20&nav=0,2

Forgot to add, thanks for being cool with me posting this here SoftRide.

I think before I hook the next set of error code eliminators up I'll take my multimeter, set it to 12v, and ground it somewhere, then use the positive lead from the multimeter to see just which wire is ground, and which is positive, then I'll be sure the ground side of the cars wiring harness is going to black on the HID wiring harness, and the positive of course will be attached to the red side of the HID wiring harness, hopefully I am correct and as usual black is ground, and red is positive.


Here is another link that I read, maybe somebody else can read it and get what they are saying to do, sounds like they are saying to direct feed the bulbs from the battery, but I do not see how that would work, as a HID needs a ballast to fire.

Troubleshooting: By Ballast / Bulb isn't working
http://www.ddmtuning.com/support/ind...eid=51&nav=0,2

My Silverado has different polarity on each side. On one side the black goes to the +, on the other, the red goes to the +.

I am not using the error eliminator OR the harness for the truck. I just unplugged from the back of the 9006 and into the ballast. That'* it, and just make sure the polarity is right for each side.

I checked polarity, and it is the same on both sides, I have a blue ground, and a dirty white positive, I ran each positive from the cars harness to the right side as indicated by the markings on where you connect it to the ballast.
I did not use the wiring harness at all, and I am happy to say that you sir are my hero, thanks MouSe!

I took a quick test drive, and the lights work amazingly, they worked so well I seen a little bunny crossing the road, it panicked and slipped on the wet road while trying to run, but I could see well enough to slow down, and not run him over.

Now if I can just find a good headlight assembly conversion, I really think that would help focus the lights, make them look even better, and keep them from blinding people as much as they can in the factory headlight assembly.

I am not sure what kind would be best with my HID'*, I found a place that has a few universal ones, any suggestions are appreciated.
http://www.tunersdepot.com/Buick/Par...iversal-1.html

Also, eventually I plan to get HID high beams as well, so I am guessing I'd need four of those headlight assembly'*?
When I choose my HID'* for the high beams, should I get the 55w ones for those?

I think my decision is a little easier after looking at what they have, since I want to reduce glare and keep from blinding other drivers I'm thinking projector style is a must, so I need to decide if I like the chrome, or the black projector style ones, I'm more partial to the black, but I'm not sure what would look better, I do have a lot of chrome, so I'm not against the chrome style projector ones, I need to measure mine and see which ones I need, I see two different sizes listed, 4x6 and 7x6.

If 4x6 is what I need I think I like these, but I keep thinking the chrome ones will throw a little more light.
http://www.tunersdepot.com/Lighting/...ck--96123.html

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

If you're gonna put projectors in there, please do it right. Use HID projectors and not halogen projectors. You'll be much more pleased with the results.

Thanks for that link, I really do not know what I need from this site, I see they have places that will do it for you, but as long as I know which projector kit I need for my car, then I am sure I could do any modding necessary, I have a dremel XPR with flexi wand, and plenty of bits.

Whatever I do I want it to still be possible to swap the old bulbs in there when I need to get it inspected, the place I go to does not look much over, but if the headlights do not say DOT3 on them they won't pass it.
I know changing it back and forth could take a little time, as long as it can be done I can handle it, really all I'd have to do is have my old lights back in there, which I can easily do as long as whatever projector housing I get will hold the old bulb like it will now.

Before I do decide to go through with the rest of the mod on the lights, if I can aim them as low as I can while still being able to see far enough ahead, can I get by without blinding people?

I can tell they provide a wider of light, and they are brighter, but the really do not look like they will blind somebody as long as I have them aimed right.

As for doing my high beams, I plan to get the 5000k HID 9005 Kit soon, I think I'm going to stick with 35W ones, as I am worried the 55W ones may put out too much heat.
I really do not do a lot of long highway driving, so I rarely have my high beams on for more than a few minutes or so at a time, so If using them for short periods of time would not hurt, then I would be up for the 55W ones, as long as they are plug and play as the low beam ones were.