Well, I had to loose the Otterbox on the phone, and I don't remember where the heck I put my camera. So here are some bullet-points, as I didn't want to ruin my s5 under the car.
First of all, this should be the first step so you don't forget later on. lock the steering wheel then for good measure put the seat belt through it and latch the seat belt. If the wheel is turning more revolutions in one direction than it was intended to, expect an airbag in your face.
Second step is to remove the pinch bolt on the steering shaft. The FSM says it'* accessed via the engine compartment. LIES. I spent a good 20 minutes trying to access it from up top. It is not going to happen. The solution is 3 feet worth of extensions, and an 11MM socket. This has to be the first time in my life I think I've ever used an 11MM socket. You need a long pry bar to pull up the dust boot, and then you can access the bolt from the wheel well. If you have you're wheel centered as it should be, the bolt will be staring right at you.
Another bullet-point (not pictured) is to go out and buy a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench. This was the only effective way to remove the (2) 10mm bolts on the top of the heat shield. (FSM claims these are clips. They are not.)
Next step is to unbolt the rubber half of the rear transmission mount. (giant torx bit, 13mm and 15mm ratcheting box ends for the rubber part)
Put a jack with some wood under the transmission and jack it up till it feels like the mounts are maxed out, and you can tell the weight of the car is beginning to be put on the jack. You will then be able to get your pry bar and yank the rubber half of the mount out.
Next, lower the jack back down (the amount the transmission goes down is negligible so don't worry about breaking something.) Once you have done that, you have to remove the metal half of the mount. (15mm socket, 13mm socket, and a 15mm box end, preferably ratcheting) The metal half is pictured below. It is mounted to the back of the transmission in the orientation i have pictured it. The 2 studs of the rubber half go up into it vertically. This is why you need to jack up the transmission to remove the rubber half.
Next step is to place your jack about 5" underneath the cradle, in the center. Proceed to remove all 4 rear cradle bolts. (18mm)
Reason you do this for clearance to get the rack out of the wheel well.
Not sure about the non magnasteer models, but with my car having magnasteer, the gearbox portion of my rack is HUGE. This being the case, the rack needs to be removed from the PASSENGER side. It is impossible for the gearbox portion to fit between the back of the transmission and wheel well on the driver side. This is why we remove the transmission mount. If it were possible to remove it from the driver side, the entire transmission mount step would be unnecessary.
One last note. These fasteners are 16 years old. They are TIGHT. Bring a cheater pipe or a breaker bar. I'm amazed nothing fastener-wise broke on me.
Here are some close ups of the damage. Judging based on the shiny just broken parts, id say this rack was barley hanging on for some time.
For the night, it'* riding in the trunk. I went and looked at the non mag steer rack i ordered and it was identical. Apart from one major detail. the line connections are WAY different on the non magnasteer model. (and the magnasteer ring, obviously)
new one will be in from Chicago in the AM I will report back tomorrow evening either really happy or really angry.