Okay update, I found the little resistor wire and looked like it was exposed touching the frame in one spot. It also looks like it has been moved previously, before I got the vehicle so it seems that it has happened before. I spliced it and taped it back up but unfortunately I didn't test the problem before "repairing" it so I don't know if that was definitely the problem or not. I did drive it around for 10 minutes and went and got some gas and it ran fine. I'll just have to run a few more tests to know for sure. I'm hoping that'* all that it was.

On another note, I found out that Service Engine Soon, Anti-Lock, and Trac-Off lights all come on at the same time AS SOON as I move forward. I can turn on the car and no lights will be on. I put it in reverse and move a few feet and nothing, I put it in drive and move a foot or so and BAM those three lights come on. I tested this three times last night. Any ideas on what that may be?

Which service light..the one on the right or the left of the cluster. Right.. Being a Regal we have a couple. lol
See one upper right and one upper left


One technically says engine and the other is vehicle. I think left is vehicle. Anyhow the vehicle one along with traction and ABS typically mean a wheel speed sensor is bad. I'm not sure if your 99 will read a BXXXX code from the pcm when the speed sensors go back like the 2000 year does. It'* worth checking for the code. If so..you'll know which wheel is the issue.

ps..on the resistor..i'd bend that pin on the relay or do it the way you did. I'd bet that mark on the wires was the reason it was sporadic.

My bad, Service Vehicle Soon is the light along with the other two. It is the one on the left side right above the Anti-Lock light. I was thinking wheel hub sensor but I just replaced that bearing with a new sensor not even two years ago. I think it may be the wiring harness side if that is in fact the problem.


I ended up not bending the relay at all. I went ahead and poked around for that wire/resistor and found the wear mark that looked like the wires were rubbing against the frame. I have already spliced it and plugged it back in. So far no stalls, stutters, or awkward behavior. I'll keep my fingers crossed on that.

No bad on that light at all. I picked up one car that had both of the stinking lights on. That'* the only way I realized that Buick decided we needed an extra. Really...who needs a service vehicle light to be seperate from a service engine?

At the point it comes on you have traction and ABS as well. Three lights are a charm? lol It'll most likely be a hub, funny part is ... two years isn't a bad life for a W body wheel bearing.

Ha ha, if only three lights were a charm. Could that light come on if any of the four wheel hub sensors were bad? I forgot but the rear hubs are probably quite a bit older than the front two.

Yup.. it sure can. Which is why you want to try and read the codes or figure out which wheel before changing parts.

Welp, I figure it'* the left front wheel hub. I just kicked each wheel and the Trac-Off light pops on when I kick the left front wheel. Could that also be causing the anti-lock and service vehicle soon lights to come on? When I kicked the wheel the other lights don't come on but when I move the car forward all three come on... Could it be because the car is moving/in drive that the other lights come on as well or could that be a different problem?

UPDATE

Welp, today I started the car and had it running for about 5-10 minutes then it just stalled out of nowhere. I wasn't touching anything. It was just idling. I started it back up no problem. It ran fine, I messed with the throttle, no hiccups. Turned A/C on/off, normal operation. Then later on I had it running and it ran for about 20 minutes and I started playing with the throttle and it started to hiccup and it stalled out. No clue!

Yes on teh wheel bearing abs question.

Start it and gently tap on the maf.

I had similar issues that were MAF related, the tip of my MAF was freely spinning inside the throttle body, the parts that held it in place had worn down, and so on occasion the car would die, and it would not start back up, funny thing is I'd have never known till on a whim I decided to not try to put that tip back on since it did not stay attached, and the car ran fine afterwards, till I found the MAF was still functioning low at idle, enough to cause misfires in cylinder #1, I had to replace it, cleaning it did no good.