A friend'* '98 Regal LS started acting odd the other night. He was on his way home and all the dash gauges and lights went out, then came back on and flickered here and there the rest of the trip. Here'* the rundown: In the accessory position, radio works, things seem to be fine. In the run position, the car will actually start by itself, but gauges only come to life for a second or two, then the car will turn over for 3 seconds or so, and even if it starts right up, the starter runs on for a second or two. Per research, and personal knowledge base, I told him most likely problem was ignition switch. So he switched it out, exact same problems. So I told him to re-hook his original ignition switch back into the harness and turn it with a screw driver, so he was going to do. However, he didn't even have to turn it, just sitting there holding the switch end of the old switch, the dash lights would flicker, the fuel pump would prime, etc. So, now I'm wondering if it'* his BCM or it it'* possible that some interface in the gauge cluster could cause this. Anyone have any ideas?

is there a seperate mechanical and electrical portions of the switch?

The tumbler is separate from the rest of the ignition switch, so to eliminate the tumbler or gear to gear that connects the tumbler to the ignition switch, we removed the ignition switch from the column and turned it by hand with a screw driver. Still started in run. I'm leaning towards a mystery former remote start box somewhere under the dash. I've got the owner looking for one we can hopefully disconnect.

if there is one that would be a good place to start. if not its got to be shorting across somewhere

Thank you very much. I hope he can find a remote start module, but if not, I'll start tracing wires.

i would split it in half, if you take out the crank relay and it doesnt do it then you know its before all that

Update: After thorough under-dash inspection, no aftermarket modules found. Dash/Gauges/Radio only worked correctly for awhile yesterday, then back off. He pulled crank relay, everything was dead, also unhooked cluster wiring from cluster, no change, still started in run position. I guess we start looking for reasons it may be back-feeding. Have semi-inspected the underhood fuse box and didn't notice any fraying or corrosion. Any one heard of the BCM somehow shorting wires inside of it? And Justin, I've got the same wheeler for our little one, re-vamped a hair from the factory settings, does about 45mph. Best $600 I ever spent I think.

i had to pay 700, i think i got quite a deal though most go for twice that, and i got a parts quad too, with cracked trans case. ones a 2000 and ones a 01 i think, i have the receipts he paid over 3k each. i can imagine it going that fast with my 7yr old that weighs 55lbs on it its almost 20 with about 75% of the throttle stop on. i dont trust her with more than that yet she like to ride too fast. the only thing i changed is the width it was tippy especially on the big quad trails, so its +7 +4 now

Sad news to report. We'll never know what was wrong with that car, today, thanks to the Minnesota DOT'* lack of interest in plowing our state'* highways before people have to be at work, the radiator and engine bay filled up with snow/slushpack this morning and caused the trusty 3800 to overheat and blow a head gasket. It'* been deemed not worth fixing because of a bevy nagging issues, one of which being the subject of this thread. At least I get to snipe all the parts I need off it now for my GS.

On a lighter note, our 7 year old boy gets full throttle access, but he went from a timid crybaby rider to a much improved and unbelievably responsible (at least at this point) atv operator. And now that I think about it, it'll probably go faster then 42 with him on it, my old mark was with my 235lb fat *** piloting. Interesting idea widening the stance, he'* only tipped it over once, and that was because he was doing donuts in the sand pit and hit a rut. Did I say I mention how responsible he is? Thanks for the ideas, I appreciate it.