When you had it up did you grab the tie rod and give it a little push/pull, this is pretty much the same thing you are doing when doing the 3-9 o clock, but it will help you be sure the inner tie rod is not bad.
I recently replaced both sides inner and outer tie rods on my 96' PA, when I jacked it up I had play/noise at the 3-9, and almost sounded like a little from 12-6, since I was not totally sure I grabbed the tie rod and push/pulled it a bit, and instantly I heard the noise, and was sure the inner tie rod was bad.
If you cannot get air tools on that hub nut you can get this from HFT, it worked for me, but I used a lot of PB Blaster before I took the nut off.
If you need to get the 34mm socket it is not too pricey here.
Tip, use anti seize on the torx bolts threads, and the hub nut when you put it on, also you can use a little to coat the splines on the drive axle.
I think your torx bit you need is a T50, on my 96' PA that was the size anyway, I'll see if I can find out what size it is for sure.
I'd suggest having a good 5lb mallet on hand, that is all I used to break my wheel bearing from the axle, I had to bang on it till I broke a sweat, so if it does not come off easily do not be surprised.
If you do bang on it get a new hub nut, and use the old one to make sure you do not hit any threads on the axle, you want to run the nut up flush with the end of the drive axle, the reason I suggest getting a new one is that there is a good chance you will have issues with the old nut if you have to bang on it too hard, mine was flush and I still had to get a new hub nut, it is recommended to replace it anyway.
For your hub nut you want DORMAN Part # 615144, rockauto has them pretty cheap, but I'd check a auto part store near you.
I recommend Timken Wheel Bearings, they may be a little more than the cheaper brands, but IMO they are worth it.
If you find the tie rods are going bad, or if they ever go bad, I recommend AC Delco.