170k, and has begun to blubber on occasion in addition to not starting after having been running fine. The no start happened a couple weeks ago, and then again yesterday. On both occasions I tried it the next morning and on both tries it starts right up. I only waited that long because I had to leave it to get elsewhere; it might not take that long. I feel as though it might be a blocked filter, and after the pressure abates it releases the blockage. This is my kids car, and he has run it out of fuel a couple times. Other ideas? Thanks.

Ya change the fuel filter & get a fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel rail to see where its at.
Tell your Son not to let it run low or out, that is a way to ingest dirt and run the pump dry.
Changing a fuel pump is expensive and no fun at all.

A blocked fuel filter does not unblock itself.....if it was blocked, not only would it be a hard start, but when running, you would have poor performance, especially on acceleration.....

Never let your fuel gauge get below 1/4......that fuel pump gets real hot.....the fuel covering it, cools it off, and prolongs the life of the pump.....

Couple things to check.......pull the vac line off of the fuel pressure regulator.....check for the presence of fuel......a leaking f/p regulator won't affect startup on a cold engine....it will on a hot or warm engine(runs too rich)...

Another thing to try, would be to disconnect the MAF sensor, and see if the car will start with it disconnected....

Another possibility is a dirty IAC pintle in combination with a dirty throttle plate and bore.....

If the car will not start hot, but starts later, possibilities are a crank sensor, ICM, fuel pump, etc.

Good posts guys, right off I was thinking ICM, but of course it could be the other things Gus mentioned.
The next time it won't start test your fuel pressure as Art suggested, and check to see if you have spark on all cylinders.

In the meantime try Gus'* suggestions, when it is running remove the EVAP line from the Fuel pressure Regulator, and wait a good minute or two to see if any fuel starts coming out of it, if that does not smell like gas, or leak fuel from it, then when it won't start unplug the MAF and see if it starts.
If it still won't start then test your ICM, here is a link that will help you do so.

https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shoo...m-test-299761/

If you are still getting nowhere with the tests, then I'll get you some info on testing the Crank Sensor, I tried to find a good how to test the CKP on here, but the search feature was not cooperating, and the forums seem to be running a little slow for me, so I found a link I often use to help others test their CKP, of course it also has info on testing the ICM, but the first link provided should be sufficient enough to help with testing that.

Part 1 -GM 3.8L Ignition Module Test and Crank Sensor Test (3X, 18X)

Ok, I've removed the EVAP and got NO discharge or odor. I unplugged the MAF and the engine DID start and run, although rough and it died at idle. Giving gas let the engine run smooth. I got a code for the MAF sensor and misfire. The MAF sensor was removed, cleaned, and reinstalled. I still have the engine light, but that could clear if the MAF cleaning worked, or it'* still the misfire issue that I don't feel. I cleaned the IAC and throttle body. I drove the car for awhile today, but didn't have issue; problem solved? If it happens again, I will try the ICM, but not sure what the problem could be with it. No spark if the ICM is hot? Thanks for the help so far.

Sounds like it may be the MAF, when you unplug it that code is normal, of course the misfire is not, hopefully that is gone as well.
If you have a auto zone or advance auto nearby you could stop by and ask them to clear the current codes for you, they should not charge anything to do so, and that will keep you from having to wait until it clears itself.
Yeah the ICM'* are known to have issues with heatsoak, so if there is no spark at all if an issue arises again, then test the ICM, it would not hurt to remove it and make sure there is no corrosion underneath the ICM.
You could try to have the ICM tested by somewhere like Autozone, but those tests are not always conclusive, as the ICM is not hot when being tested, so it usually does not register as failed.

Thanks for updating us.

Thanks. I had the engine light prior to any cleaning. What is the indicator that makes you suspect the MAF? What is suppose to happen when starting with MAF unplugged? I'm not really sure that there is no spark when this problem happens, but I will check for corrosion or funk underneath the ICM.

I was just saying since you cleaned the MAF and it is seeming to run better.
When you unplug the MAF and start it is uses PE (power enrichment tables) to judge how much gas to give it, getting a MAF code when unplugging it is normal, of course it still should not have started and then shut off immediately, that was before you cleaned the MAF and IAC though, which leads me to think the MAF may have been dirty, if the readings from it are off enough then I could see it causing the engine to stall.
Not saying the IAC could not have been the culprit, but judging on personal experiences with my own MAF leads me to think it was MAF related.