i have a 94 buick park avenue that i am on the verg of junking. I can not figure out what is the root problem probly be best to put in shop and let pros fix it instead of nickle and dime myself to death. Any ideas here is my is issues

I get in car to drive anywhere and she will start fine and pur like a kitten. once i reach my destination and cut the car off go do whatever i have to do. Work, errands, etc and come back to start her up she wont start. will turn over but almost like shes not gettin fuel. but i hear fuel pump and shes got plenty of gas.
Only does this when she is up to running temp. and after a drive.

Second issue is not going into overdrive. she will shift smoothly threw all gears but when i hit 55 guess what no overdrive

3rd issue and this may have to do with the overdrive issue but but cruise control will not engage im thinkin mind you i am not tech but i think its because of the high rpms the cruise control light will come one for a second them back off.

i have changed wires, plugs, icm, coils. checked all fuses under dash on driver side and under hood. any ideas??? Gas mileage is killing me and no start condition after driving is annoying.

I went to a highly recommend shop here in my home town and he plugs computer in to read codes and said it was showing iac valve (low temp) and throttle position sensor. I tested the tps with a multimeter and checked out fine.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?

when it wont start try moving the petal to half way that bypasses the iac and might get past a dead spot on the tps. most cant start hot issues are ICM or crank position sensors. might have several issues but i know that tps issues affect trans performance and some ecm codes lock the torque converter out. so i would start by getting the engine problem fixed and that may take care of everything. so i think i would clean the iac cone and where it sits in the TB and try it again and then try the throttle half way and see. i would also take a plug socket and wrench to pull a plug and see if has spark when it wont start.

ok thanks but would the crank sensor throw a code? and why does it do in only occasionally like today i drove to town shut her off did my business came out the fired right up. then i went to next destination shut her off did my business came back out and again fired back up. no issue today. codes i am getting are iac low temp and tps and what can i clean iac with? carb cleaner ok?? and if i pull that plug i should most def be wearing some anitelectric gloves of sometype right. I just dont get it the icm is new the coils are new the wires and plugs are new. what would cause an icm to go bad in 8 months???

Icm and crank sensor most times don't give codes. But if you replaced it already don't worry about it yet. That'* why I said do the iac and tps first then if that is not the problem it'* likely the ckp or icm. The carb cleaner has to be sensor safe and don't spray in the iac, just on the cone and in the tb. No you don't need anti static gloves

ok thanks what do u recomend i have just some regular cheap carb cleaner. not sure if it is sensor safe i will have to check but what would you use? and i check the tps with multimeter reading right so could it still be faulty some how

In addition to what has been suggested, check the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator for fuel......a leaking reg will cause a hard start on a hot engine, not a cold engine....also, when it won't start, disconnect the MAF sensor, and see if it starts....

No fourth gear should not inhibit cruise engagement....is the cruise switch on the steering wheel?

When you are about to engage the cruise, safely pull upward on the brake pedal with your foot and then turn cruise on and hit set button....if it engages, your brake pedal may be out of adjustment....another check is make sure your center stop lamps are working, on some cars this will disable cruise....

Sure there is no fourth gear? At 60-65 mph, with tcc engaged, rpms will be less than 2000...if in 3rd, well above that...

If you are getting a code for the tps there is something wrong with it, or something wrong with the supply voltage or wires to the pcm. If you test it with the plug plugged in, the voltage should be stable if you slowly move it from no throttle to wide open. If you have that have to find the wire at the pcm and test it there. Like I said worry about one thing at a time these cars are complicated but they tell you what is wrong if you listen. As far as the cleaner should be on the can

Just mentioned this in another thread... the hot engine no-start also is a classic symptom of a failing FPR. They are not too expensive to replace, or you could swap in a cheap junkyard version just to see if that problem in particular is solved.

fpr, ckp, and icm are all failures without codes or possibly rich or lean code with the fpr.

I would also check the brake switch. I don't think that would prevent overdrive, but it will prevent TCC lockup, and mess with the cruise control. Do you get TCC lockup in 3rd?

If you can get your hands on a PCM easy and cheaply enough that may be worth a shot. It seems like 94/95 PCM'* are great, when they work, but aren't as bulletproof as other generations. Also be sure to check groundbusses in the cabin.