2004 Lesabre Oil Pan & Intake Manifold Gaskets
10-05-2014, 06:46 PM
#1
Junior Member
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Thread Starter
2004 Lesabre Oil Pan & Intake Manifold Gaskets
Hi guys, I am buying an 04 Lesabre Limited with 47,000 miles this week and first thing is to change out the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and Upper intake plenum.
In order to rid the engine of any possible coolant in the wrong places, I will drain the oil, take the spark plugs out, and crank the engine by hand. Then I will drop the oil pan & clean it out.
Questions:
1) I am looking at oil pan gaskets on rockauto.com and there are two different shapes of this gasket. How do I know which one I have?(I don't have the car yet but want to order everything soon)
2) I have heard this car might have an engine mount attached to the oil pan. True? Is dropping the pan gonna be tough?
3) Orings/Seals: I am doing the injector o-rings and also replacing the thermostat and it'* seal. Should I put anything on those like sealant, lubricant, etc?
4) Bolts: I do not have any torque wrenches, what should I do? I don't mind buying them if that'* what it takes. What should I put on the UIM & LIM bolts? Put blue loctite on all of them?
Thanks!
In order to rid the engine of any possible coolant in the wrong places, I will drain the oil, take the spark plugs out, and crank the engine by hand. Then I will drop the oil pan & clean it out.
Questions:
1) I am looking at oil pan gaskets on rockauto.com and there are two different shapes of this gasket. How do I know which one I have?(I don't have the car yet but want to order everything soon)
2) I have heard this car might have an engine mount attached to the oil pan. True? Is dropping the pan gonna be tough?
3) Orings/Seals: I am doing the injector o-rings and also replacing the thermostat and it'* seal. Should I put anything on those like sealant, lubricant, etc?
4) Bolts: I do not have any torque wrenches, what should I do? I don't mind buying them if that'* what it takes. What should I put on the UIM & LIM bolts? Put blue loctite on all of them?
Thanks!
Last edited by GerGa; 10-05-2014 at 06:50 PM.
10-05-2014, 07:42 PM
#2
Retired
Certified Car Nut
1. Why are you changing the oil pan gasket?
2. Not sure. But when you get the car, take a picture of the oil pan for us.
3. Why are you doing the injector o-rings? Thermostat-just drop it in and install a new housing gasket.
4. Get a torque wrench. They are fairly cheap and you need to not only know torque settings, but torque sequence. No, don't put Loctite on them. Either buy NEW bolts or clean them on a wire wheel and put THREAD SEALER on the lower portion of the bolts. You want to seal the threads(coolant jackets), not lock the bolts in.
2. Not sure. But when you get the car, take a picture of the oil pan for us.
3. Why are you doing the injector o-rings? Thermostat-just drop it in and install a new housing gasket.
4. Get a torque wrench. They are fairly cheap and you need to not only know torque settings, but torque sequence. No, don't put Loctite on them. Either buy NEW bolts or clean them on a wire wheel and put THREAD SEALER on the lower portion of the bolts. You want to seal the threads(coolant jackets), not lock the bolts in.
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10-05-2014, 08:28 PM
#3
Junior Member
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Thread Starter
1. I am changing the oil pan gasket because I am dropping the oil pan. Figure I shouldn't reuse it.
2. will do
3. Have been recommended to change injector o-rings when the injectors are being pulled - (shouldn't reuse an o-ring?)
4.
2. will do
3. Have been recommended to change injector o-rings when the injectors are being pulled - (shouldn't reuse an o-ring?)
4.
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Mike (10-05-2014)
10-05-2014, 09:20 PM
#4
Retired
Certified Car Nut
1. That still didn't answer my question.
2. Ok
3. Ok, you were told correct.
4. Your welcome.
2. Ok
3. Ok, you were told correct.
4. Your welcome.
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10-05-2014, 11:42 PM
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
You are going with the Fel-PRO aluminum framed lower intake manifold gasket right?
And also going with the Dorman coolant elbow?
If you need part numbers let me know.
I am also curious as for the reasoning in replacing the oil pan gasket, I get you are dropping the pan, but for what reason?
Is the old gasket leaking?
If not I do not see a reason to drop the pan.
Search results for: 'torque wrench'
As for torque wrenches, *** Mike said you really want to use them, Harbor Freight Tools has them for around 20.00 each, or you could see if a local auto parts store will long you the in lb, and ft lb torque wrenches you need, I think Auto Zone or Advance loans tools out, one of them used to, but it has been so long since I borrowed one, I cannot remember.
As for the oil pan gasket, all 3 listed look the same to me, only thing I notice is one picture is flipped vertically, so it looks different.
I'd go with the FEL-PRO Part # OS30699R gasket, just be sure to have to have some RTV on hand, because if your pan is the grooved pan it can leak if RTV is not used.
Oh yea, for the thermostat gasket, with the paper type gasket, it won't hurt to put a thin coat of RTV on it, I did this with my car, just in case the RTV ring already on the gasket did not seal well enough, I figured better safe than sorry.
And also going with the Dorman coolant elbow?
If you need part numbers let me know.
I am also curious as for the reasoning in replacing the oil pan gasket, I get you are dropping the pan, but for what reason?
Is the old gasket leaking?
If not I do not see a reason to drop the pan.
Search results for: 'torque wrench'
As for torque wrenches, *** Mike said you really want to use them, Harbor Freight Tools has them for around 20.00 each, or you could see if a local auto parts store will long you the in lb, and ft lb torque wrenches you need, I think Auto Zone or Advance loans tools out, one of them used to, but it has been so long since I borrowed one, I cannot remember.
As for the oil pan gasket, all 3 listed look the same to me, only thing I notice is one picture is flipped vertically, so it looks different.
I'd go with the FEL-PRO Part # OS30699R gasket, just be sure to have to have some RTV on hand, because if your pan is the grooved pan it can leak if RTV is not used.
Oh yea, for the thermostat gasket, with the paper type gasket, it won't hurt to put a thin coat of RTV on it, I did this with my car, just in case the RTV ring already on the gasket did not seal well enough, I figured better safe than sorry.
10-06-2014, 03:24 AM
#6
I got the same car and I just did an oil pan gasket. The oil pan on there is very well designed and thick so there is no danger of warping the pan on removal. I have done what you are planning even the LIM gasket and here is dow I did it to be leak free.
Oil Pan gasket. The engine mount is attached to the oil pan so your right there. You need at least a bottle jack and wood to support the engine. I supported mine close to the edge of the tranny pan with wood and jack. It is enough to support it. You have to remove the fastener securing the tranny lines to the bell housing (It'* almost impossible to remove the dust shields without doing that)
As for the mount there is kind of a hidden stud you have to remove from the top of the bracket. It is a pain to have to pry and turn the bracket on removal and installation.
When dropping the pan you have to take the oil level sensor out otherwise the pan won't fall.
Oil Pan bolts = 120 to 125 INCH lbs (safer to stick with 120)
Mount (Bottom nut) = 40 FT lbs
All other mount bolts and studs = 30 FT lbs
Oil Pickup tube = 132 INCH lbs
Careful with the oil pan bolts I had one snap on me and had to use an easy out to get it back out. Took an additional 2 hours but I was able to save the threads :P Also clean your pickup tube out really well as a lot of carbon develops in it. Also DO NOT forget to put rtv bead at all 4 corners where the timing cover meets the block and the main cap meets the block on the other end.
As for the gasket you need this should be able to be crossed but here is the autozone part number OS30699R it should cross at rockauto because it is felpro'* part number not Autozones.
Now the LIM and UIM repair. You will need this kit MS98014T. Also it is not a bad idead to grab this UIM (dorman part number 615-180) since most of them warp. I bought one and have never regretted it. There is a big Oring for the PCV area and a smaller one you will miss down inside the housing. And there are 2 hidden bolts under the 2 puddles of oil you will find in the LIM. Don't be alarmed by the puddles in the LIM they are normal for this engine.
LIM bolts = 132 INCH lbs
UIM = 89 INCH lbs
Throttle Body = 89 INCH lbs
Thermostat housing bolts = 16 FT lbs
Also don't forget to use a bead of RTV at all 4 corners of the valley and threadlock all bolts.
For the thermostat housing gasket. There is not one that you need really as you will only find a seal around the thermostat and that is enough to keep it from leaking. But if you like to have peace of mind like me use the paper one that comes in the LIM gasket kit.
Lastly since the cooling system must be emptied then it is a good time to flush the system and only use Conventional Green Antifreeze from autozone. This kind worked fine for over 60 years you do not need DEATHCOOL as this is what caused the LIM gaskets to blow out. I am pretty sure after you see the pitting on the LIM from that crap you will want nothing but the green in there.
These jobs are not the hardest but are in a lot of ways tedious and require a fair amount of attention to get everything leak free. The most important thing is to clean a lot. The block and head can be wire wheeled with the normal steel wire wheels but the aluminum side has to be done either by hand or with a brass wire wheel.
As WilliamE pointed out you can rent a torque wrench from Auutozone there is a big one and a Inch lb one. I am currently the manager of an Autozone so I can verify that. Also if you need one ask them to pull up the repair info on the computer and then print it for you they have to do this for you if it is available for the job your doing.
Good luck these cars are really nice cars once you tackle the stuff it needs. Oh and the hard shift these have when upshifting due to a stuck pressure control solenoid can be bypassed with the 4T65E trans-go shift kit. Easy to do and takes about an hour.
Oil Pan gasket. The engine mount is attached to the oil pan so your right there. You need at least a bottle jack and wood to support the engine. I supported mine close to the edge of the tranny pan with wood and jack. It is enough to support it. You have to remove the fastener securing the tranny lines to the bell housing (It'* almost impossible to remove the dust shields without doing that)
As for the mount there is kind of a hidden stud you have to remove from the top of the bracket. It is a pain to have to pry and turn the bracket on removal and installation.
When dropping the pan you have to take the oil level sensor out otherwise the pan won't fall.
Oil Pan bolts = 120 to 125 INCH lbs (safer to stick with 120)
Mount (Bottom nut) = 40 FT lbs
All other mount bolts and studs = 30 FT lbs
Oil Pickup tube = 132 INCH lbs
Careful with the oil pan bolts I had one snap on me and had to use an easy out to get it back out. Took an additional 2 hours but I was able to save the threads :P Also clean your pickup tube out really well as a lot of carbon develops in it. Also DO NOT forget to put rtv bead at all 4 corners where the timing cover meets the block and the main cap meets the block on the other end.
As for the gasket you need this should be able to be crossed but here is the autozone part number OS30699R it should cross at rockauto because it is felpro'* part number not Autozones.
Now the LIM and UIM repair. You will need this kit MS98014T. Also it is not a bad idead to grab this UIM (dorman part number 615-180) since most of them warp. I bought one and have never regretted it. There is a big Oring for the PCV area and a smaller one you will miss down inside the housing. And there are 2 hidden bolts under the 2 puddles of oil you will find in the LIM. Don't be alarmed by the puddles in the LIM they are normal for this engine.
LIM bolts = 132 INCH lbs
UIM = 89 INCH lbs
Throttle Body = 89 INCH lbs
Thermostat housing bolts = 16 FT lbs
Also don't forget to use a bead of RTV at all 4 corners of the valley and threadlock all bolts.
For the thermostat housing gasket. There is not one that you need really as you will only find a seal around the thermostat and that is enough to keep it from leaking. But if you like to have peace of mind like me use the paper one that comes in the LIM gasket kit.
Lastly since the cooling system must be emptied then it is a good time to flush the system and only use Conventional Green Antifreeze from autozone. This kind worked fine for over 60 years you do not need DEATHCOOL as this is what caused the LIM gaskets to blow out. I am pretty sure after you see the pitting on the LIM from that crap you will want nothing but the green in there.
These jobs are not the hardest but are in a lot of ways tedious and require a fair amount of attention to get everything leak free. The most important thing is to clean a lot. The block and head can be wire wheeled with the normal steel wire wheels but the aluminum side has to be done either by hand or with a brass wire wheel.
As WilliamE pointed out you can rent a torque wrench from Auutozone there is a big one and a Inch lb one. I am currently the manager of an Autozone so I can verify that. Also if you need one ask them to pull up the repair info on the computer and then print it for you they have to do this for you if it is available for the job your doing.
Good luck these cars are really nice cars once you tackle the stuff it needs. Oh and the hard shift these have when upshifting due to a stuck pressure control solenoid can be bypassed with the 4T65E trans-go shift kit. Easy to do and takes about an hour.
10-06-2014, 06:19 AM
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Be sure to replace the EGR stove pipe with the reduced diameter one, you should get it in the Dorman UIM Gasket Kit, or UIM/UIM Gasket Kit..
You'll actually get two of them in the kit, on is not for your application, so you can discard it.
A tip when replacing that, use the old one you remove to place over the new stove pipe, and tap it down till it is as close to flush as you can get it.
If you need any help with how to do it I have a PDF a friend made up on doing the job, and I also have a thread of about 25 pages from when I did mu UIM/LIM.
You'll actually get two of them in the kit, on is not for your application, so you can discard it.
A tip when replacing that, use the old one you remove to place over the new stove pipe, and tap it down till it is as close to flush as you can get it.
If you need any help with how to do it I have a PDF a friend made up on doing the job, and I also have a thread of about 25 pages from when I did mu UIM/LIM.
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Soft Ride (10-09-2014)
10-06-2014, 11:18 AM
#8
Senior Member
True Car Nut
another vote for the dorman 615-180 upper kit, its a pretty good deal considering all it comes with
and while apart you need to do the plastic elbow to aluminum conversion because when you take the manifold or tensioner off they break off into a bunch of pieces in the manifold.Dorman pn;47065hp
and while apart you need to do the plastic elbow to aluminum conversion because when you take the manifold or tensioner off they break off into a bunch of pieces in the manifold.Dorman pn;47065hp
10-07-2014, 08:26 PM
#9
Junior Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Be sure to replace the EGR stove pipe with the reduced diameter one, you should get it in the Dorman UIM Gasket Kit, or UIM/UIM Gasket Kit..
You'll actually get two of them in the kit, on is not for your application, so you can discard it.
A tip when replacing that, use the old one you remove to place over the new stove pipe, and tap it down till it is as close to flush as you can get it.
If you need any help with how to do it I have a PDF a friend made up on doing the job, and I also have a thread of about 25 pages from when I did mu UIM/LIM.
You'll actually get two of them in the kit, on is not for your application, so you can discard it.
A tip when replacing that, use the old one you remove to place over the new stove pipe, and tap it down till it is as close to flush as you can get it.
If you need any help with how to do it I have a PDF a friend made up on doing the job, and I also have a thread of about 25 pages from when I did mu UIM/LIM.
10-08-2014, 04:58 AM
#10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Here is the link to the thread from when I learned to do my LIM/UIM, I asked almost every question one could ask, and there are a few good tips in the thread.
Replacing UIM, UIM Gasket, and LIM Gasket. - 3800Pro.com Forum
The pdf I'd have to e-mail to you, so if you want to private message me your e-mail I can send the PDF, as I don't have a link for it, because it was e-mailed to me by a guy in that thread.
The only thing in the PDF I did not do was to remove the Exhaust crossover pipe, I was able to do it all with that still in place, but it would be a tad easier if it was removed.
Replacing UIM, UIM Gasket, and LIM Gasket. - 3800Pro.com Forum
The pdf I'd have to e-mail to you, so if you want to private message me your e-mail I can send the PDF, as I don't have a link for it, because it was e-mailed to me by a guy in that thread.
The only thing in the PDF I did not do was to remove the Exhaust crossover pipe, I was able to do it all with that still in place, but it would be a tad easier if it was removed.