Sounds like you have already spent more than the car was worth. Too bad they couldn't have found the real problem to begin with and not replace 10 things that were OK.

The things that were replaced sounded like they needed to be replaced, well all but possibly the EGR.
If the Dex Cool was let go for too long without servicing it, and air was let get in, and stay in the system a while, or Non Dex Cool AF was mixed with the Dex, then it can/will get cruddy and nasty, and cause all of the things listed to need to be replaced.
So I don't think those things were OK, if they had been replaced by the owner and not a mechanic, then the cost really would not have been much, the most costly part would be the radiator..

I'd do what Tech II suggested with the IAC and TB first.
Then considering what all was mentioned that they fixed, and the reasoning for fixing it, I'd have the cylinders all checked for compression, if the compression is good then I'd do the UIM/LIM job.
You can get a compression tool on loan from AutoZOne I think it is..
The cylinders should be fine since it does not sound like the motor got any coolant into its cylinders, but a compression test would help verify all cylinder are in good shape.
If it still shuts off after all of that then the ICM would be my guess, when the ICM starts to go bad heat-soak can cause the car to stall.

Oh yeah, another thing to check, be sure the tip to the MAF Sensor is not coming off of the sensor, it can come off and spin in the TB'* MAF bore, and that will occasionally cause the car to run poorly upon start up, and could cause issues if the tip got stuck blocking off the throttle body MAF bore...
If the tip easily comes off easily then I'd remove it and see is the car still stalls, if it doesn't replace the MAF eventually.
I had an issue with that happening, and the MAF still ran the same with the tip removed, so there is no rush to replace it if that is an issue..

When it stalls does it cough and sputter, or shut down like someone flipped a switch?

I just joined this forum and thought I throw in my to cents as well.

Depending on where you are living, temperature can be a major player. I had the exact same issue with my car ('96 PA base) and I have been through several trial and error sessions.

I replaced the EGR (gone bad anyway), MAP and IAC (which smoothed out a rough idle), as well as fixing a leak in the vacuum line to the EGR purge solenoid. But the actual culprit in my case was the fuel pump. After I replaced it - along with fuel level sender and filter - the stalling not only disappeared but the car runs much better.

In summer we can easily reach 115 air temperature, which is on black asphalt top easily 140. The theory is that the old fuel pump, aided by the hot asphalt in heating up the tank, overheated and then stopped working for a few seconds or sometimes minutes until it cooled down by a few degrees. Supporting this theory is that the stumbling and stalling issue was less likely to happen when the tank was full.

Side note: I had of course checked the fuel pressure before, which was in the 40-48 psi range at idle and revving up. But obviously, good fuel pressure is only half the truth.

I don't think though that you can really test anything. IMO only way to be sure is to pull the tank and do the whole job. (BTW in my tank we found two handful of rust ground into fine mesh. Stupid steel tank is rusting inside....)

Hope this helps.

stalling issues on this ?

1, check the fuel pressure regulator, could be bad and dumping fuel into vac lines

2, Icm failing, once icm heats up, fails, random stalls with restarts ok

3, iac valve, needs cleaned, replaced