This is what happens when you have a good flashlight and have a feeling..
Nothing wrong with this engine mount Right?


So lets use the flashlight and see if it'*.....

Fubar...

Oh and on top of that my park ave "boat" has a new propeller sound coming from the front right wheel bearing...

More beer Please!

That one isn't as bad as my passenger side one I replaced on my GTP today. I upgraded mine with poly bushings.

MSP Polyurethane Upper Motor Mounts: 3800 Performance

Your gonna need more beer to install that new mount.

ive lost a few hubs in the winter but not any mounts i dont think

NATE- Wow your'* is past torn. Wonder if poly is avail for 97 PA somewhere?

Mike- Yes! Correct! Shouldn't take longer than a 6 pack to get er done! (40 min)!!!

Justin- I hope U never loose a mount in Winter either! In My case I wish I would have just left the hood closed, and never looked!!

at least the bearing is an easy job. ive gotten to where i can replace them in just under 30 mins. you will need a 34mm socket, a 13 a 15 a u-joint a torque wrench, a breaker bar mallet and a jack. ive replaced mine so often that i keep a kit with those tools in a box. the torque specs are 108-115 lbft on the hub and 95lbft on the 3 bolts.

you drive these cars more than about 5.5 hours and the front bearings go.

as for the mount, id let it ride till its warm out!

every time id bomb by myself the 8 hrs to memphis, only stopping once for gas, id have to pull one of these when i got there.

Tater- What is it about the front passenger wheel bearing that wont hold together?
ZTime on the freeway shouldn't matter, if the quality of bearings were any good!
I assume it is the same part number for left/right front correct?-
Thanks Jason Four ur input BTW.!

bearings are the same left and right. my theory on the life of them is this; they used the same bearing on the caviler. our cars are a whooole lot heavier. the extra stress creates more heat on the sealed bearing, and it melts the bearing races.

as for brand. i cant tell a difference in life on the house brand VS the timkens. (have had both, timken is what ive got now). the reason i went timken, is the 3 year warranty. them things is spensive!!!

ive also noted that the steel on aluminum combo makes the first removal a royal PITA. the best way ive found to remove a seized bearing is to get a hammer and misalign the bolt holes. then drive the bolts in from the back so that they push on the bearing surface. doing this evenly across all three bolts pushes the bearing out with little effort. heat does not work, as the bearing is steel and heats up quicker than the aluminum knuckle that it fits into.

Oh wow man, that is pretty shot eh!
I am afraid to look mine over, but after seeing this I will do so soon.

Yes William not in the best of shape. We did put into gear while brakes were on to see how much extra play there was in the bushing. It was probably 3/4 extra play, which means take it easy off the lights. I dont want to tear it even further, and sure need to get some parts here soon. I may have access to my buds lift after Feb2nd, and want to do both front bearing and engine mount together, inside with the full access to air tools. As Jason mentioned the first time u do bearing, it can be a real bear. Shop also has floor jacks and engine chain Wheeling stand hoist, so support or lift, to assist in removal, to hopefully make this job a breeze.
The other question I am debating, should I just do both wheel bearings while I am there?
*The mileage on the Pk Ave is 104,000 miles currently.