Blower Resistor 1992 Park Ave
#3
Senior Member
Do you have a manual system or an auto temp? Autotemp uses a blower control module....
A simple way to test, is with a test light......disconnect the wire to the blower motor, and attach the test light to the wire and a good ground.....
Put blower switch on lowest setting......mode switch in vent....Turn key to on......test light should be on but dim....as you rotate to higher speeds the test light should get brighter....at high speed it should be as bright as putting your test light directly across the battery......if your test light lights, need a blower motor.....
If you are doing this test, because your blower motor wasn't running, before doing the test, have your key on, mode at vent, any speed setting, and then lightly tap the head of the blower motor with a hammer...if it now runs, you need a blower motor....
You can check the R block with an ohm meter directly.....remove harness to R block....attach leads to D and c, should get a reading of 2-3 ohms...now go to D to B, should get a slightly higher reading....finally go D to A, and should get a slightly higher reading than the previous one....if anything is OL, then you need a resistor block...
A simple way to test, is with a test light......disconnect the wire to the blower motor, and attach the test light to the wire and a good ground.....
Put blower switch on lowest setting......mode switch in vent....Turn key to on......test light should be on but dim....as you rotate to higher speeds the test light should get brighter....at high speed it should be as bright as putting your test light directly across the battery......if your test light lights, need a blower motor.....
If you are doing this test, because your blower motor wasn't running, before doing the test, have your key on, mode at vent, any speed setting, and then lightly tap the head of the blower motor with a hammer...if it now runs, you need a blower motor....
You can check the R block with an ohm meter directly.....remove harness to R block....attach leads to D and c, should get a reading of 2-3 ohms...now go to D to B, should get a slightly higher reading....finally go D to A, and should get a slightly higher reading than the previous one....if anything is OL, then you need a resistor block...
#4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
This popped up in my visitor messages:
Given that your profile indicates a '92 Park Avenue Ultra, I assume you have climate control. At that point, I would be inclined to move straight to replacement of the blower control module. Second hand salvage should be your best bet. If things got hot enough to melt down connectors, I wouldn't want to trust it, especially since they have been known to cause funny gremlins in rare occasions. I would also doublecheck the wiring just to be sure that nothing else got melted down.
okiewes
old blower seized; new blower wouldn't work; found scorched 4-pin connector to resistor; replaced connector; blower still not working unless I bypass resistor completely. suspect damaged resistor; Thanks for any help.
old blower seized; new blower wouldn't work; found scorched 4-pin connector to resistor; replaced connector; blower still not working unless I bypass resistor completely. suspect damaged resistor; Thanks for any help.
Given that your profile indicates a '92 Park Avenue Ultra, I assume you have climate control. At that point, I would be inclined to move straight to replacement of the blower control module. Second hand salvage should be your best bet. If things got hot enough to melt down connectors, I wouldn't want to trust it, especially since they have been known to cause funny gremlins in rare occasions. I would also doublecheck the wiring just to be sure that nothing else got melted down.
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