I have not yet done brakes on this car. Although my front passenger one squeals like a pig once the brakes get warm, so fairly soon, I am going to get them apart and put anti-squeal on the backs of the pads to shut them up.
There is a quick trick if the caliper mounting bolts come loose but you canít get them off (the bolts out and the caliper off the mounting bracket), chances are, theyíre loose, but caught up inside that rubber boot somehow just spinning. This is a common problem on Malibuí*, Grand Amí*, Grand Prixí* and a few other FWD GM vehicles.
Locate a little collar like sleeve located between the caliper and the bracket. It should have some sort of flat sides to it so that you can hold onto it with a wrench or pliers. Hold that steady while you unscrew the bolt itself.
If ití* a matter of having the bolts out and you just canít get the caliper off the mounting bracket, thatí* simply a matter of having to work it off with force. Trust me, Iíve been there, ití* a PITA! If possible, try pushing the piston back into the caliper (like mentioned above in Bluí* description with a C-Clamp). This will give you more wiggle room to work it off. It sometimes helps to tilt it off and out from either the top or bottom of the caliper (whichever has more initial wiggle room to start with) then pull it out/off the rest of the way. For example, if the top is loose and the bottom wonít really budge, work the top off, tilt it out and away, and eventually the bottom will come to. Aside from being hung up on the rotor, be careful of those little rubber according moisture protection tubes that allow the caliper to float freely when assembled. Theyíll just pop out of their recessed holes on the caliper bracket and then will pop back in with a small flat head screwdriver on reassembly.
When pushing back the piston after cleaning and starting to reassemble things, A) Take the lid off of the reservoir on the master cylinder and B) it doesnít hurt to crack the bleeder screw open. This way as you push back the piston, the retreating fluid, which may be contaminated with whatever, will go out and not back into the line and/or any screen/filter clogging it up resulting in poor brake pressure once everything is back together. This is an actual service procedure on GM trucks when pushing back the piston and doesnít hurt to make it common practice on all vehicles GM or not. This isnít a replacement for bleeding them mind you, so youíll still want to do that. Bleeding the system is meant to be bleeding FROM the master cylinder.
Oh yea, pick up some of that anti-squeal stuff. CRC makes it, it comes in a little bottle, ití* orange in color. It pours like water but soon dries to a gooey, rubbery like substance that keeps the pads from vibrating which is what actually causes the squealing.