...or rather, the reset function for the "Fuel Used" display has.

All other functions on the DIC work fine and reset when so commanded. The "Fuel Used" function works, but won't reset.

Is there some way to do a "cold boot" on this thing'* computer? And where is the computer located?

'Bout near broke the reset button, pushing on it that damn hard....

Yes . When you disconnect the battery it will reset the DIC and the PCM. The car may run a little funny as the PCM relearns but that is normal. I've had mine off a dozen times now.(For mod work) Hope that takes care of your problem guy. Thats a new one I havent heard before. Let us know how you make out. Just pull the front of the back seat up and towards the rear and she'll come right out.

Now ALL of the resettable functions aren't resetting. Average MPG, Fuel Used...nothing'* zeroing out. But they're all still working normally otherwise...

Gonna change my original theory; I'd thought at first that perhaps some information in the PCM had corrupted and that by doing a "cold boot" (disconnecting the battery and
allowing the system to reset) maybe that would get the function to work again.

But now that ALL the functions aren't resetting, but still working fine otherwise....I'm thinking maybe the "reset" button itself is off. The trim piece around that bunch of buttons is slightly loose; I don't know if I did it, or if it came that way. But it'* leading me to think that perhaps the contacts for the button are fouled, somehow.

Or maybe my original theory'* still correct, and the PCM is just corrupting further. This possibility worries me, because this sucker is so highly dependent on its brain box; if that thing corrupts and the engine gacks up, I'm sorta screwed...luckily for me, I bought the extended warranty.

Would reaalllly be interested in hearing from some of the Bonnie computer gurus, iff'n there are any...I'm hoping that despite the non-hackable PCM, somebody may still know something...

I know it sucks but I would just bring it to the dealer. The car is under warranty so let them figure it out. Only crappy part will be getting stuck with a loaner. Loaners suck when you own a nicer car.

Going to Mr Goodwrench seems the best viable optiom. My Buick Lacrosse had a glitch. First they had me come in for a reprogram, then GM finally came out and said that most of the chips had a crack in them and was replacing them all. It was then, when I went in for the replacement that I found The unwanted GXP with a heavily discounted price and drove it home that day. I HOPE the GXP doesnt have the same chip as the LaCrosse in it'* PCM. The term unlockable or nonflashable only refers to owners... Mr GoodWretch can modify them and I wish I had one as a "drinking buddy".

Anybody know how to remove the cover panel around the DIC buttons?

I'm not gonna try this one myself, but I've got a bad feeling that the Goodwrench guys aren't gonna know how...may need to show them.

Is it held in by clips or screws? (looks like clips but I want to be sure---screw this up and the whole dash is a mess) What would be the best point to begin removal---top, bottom, or sides of the cover?

Car'* going in on Monday---first oil change, pass. door panel, and the DIC. Will handle the foglights and HUD vibe later.

There are three "catches" on the DIC cover, the one on the bottom is a plastic one molded into the piece itself and you Dont want to start there. There are two others that are metal slide on clips. You can start with either. The one on the right is in the middle and the one on the left is almost 2/3'* of the way up. Loosen either of these by gently prying with something thin(butter knife) right at the clip, it will give, and the other will come loose, then tilt the top of the cover out and pull up and out on the whole cover.

Oil change done, no problem.

The passenger side rear door panel is a no-go; they're telling me it'* a $700 replacement job for the entire panel. Looks like the trim shop that did the work broke the retaining clips at the top of the panel, so Goodwrench won't do the job under warranty.

The DIC---still inop. They took the dash apart (at least they put it back together right). The tech told me that the connections are good, the switch itself looks solid, but he still doesn't know what'* wrong. He WAS able to reset everything...but he did it accidentally when he touched the power probe to the back of the switch at the ground wire. He tells me that there'* only one ground wire for the entire DIC switch panel. The tech'* going to call the GM tech support line tomorrow and try to figure it out.

My stance on this is that the switch is probably bad...but the Goodwrench kid will take a looooooooooooooonnnngggg time figuring that out. I'm open to ideas from the folks here...

When he grounded out it reset everything?, but it still doesnt work? Not sure what you meant here. Is everything just reading 0 now or is it again operational. The way you worded it , it sounds like he blew the memory right out of it when he grounded.
What trim shop worked on your car, did you buy it used?

It zeroed everything out when he probed the ground wire connection with the voltmeter,
but the "reset" button is still inoperative...it also zeroed the trip odometer (which didn't need zeroing because that particular function still works).

The computer functions still work normally---it'* just the reset button that'* not working.

As to the trim shop: It was the Pearl Harbor Navy Exchange shop---they do tints and stereos. The only real problem that I see here is that I was too damn honest...shoulda kept my mouth shut, but noooooo, I just gotta speak up. So...I'll probably "redneck-rig" it...hot glue and duct tape, carefully applied so as not to be to noticeable.