Wire size and amp capacity
#41
I know I've asked this before but I have a 95 SSE and put a 250 watt rms amp to a 200 watt sub and when I turn it up a bit or even at idle and sometimes while driving I get gauge sputter. Too much for my comfort IMO. It seems that the more I drive the lower voltage I read throughout the day. I was told by someone here I'd be fine but the results I'm noticing leave me uncomfortable.... Should I consider the big 3?
Also no one as of yet had answered my question about my power antenna not going up after my aftermarket HU install with the wire I was told was for the antenna but it still won't go up. I also still have the ability, without buying an adaptor, to dim my gauge lights, which I thought was interesting
Also no one as of yet had answered my question about my power antenna not going up after my aftermarket HU install with the wire I was told was for the antenna but it still won't go up. I also still have the ability, without buying an adaptor, to dim my gauge lights, which I thought was interesting
#42
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True Car Nut
I don't think changing the radio affects your dash lights, I believe what you are thinking of is the ability for the radio to dim with the dash lights. Usually the radio will have a dimmer wire that you can hook up so that it dims with the dash lights.
For the antenna, unless the radio has an output that only turns on when the source is set to radio, I would consider giving it constant signal and then putting it on a switch. That way your antenna isn't up whenever the radio is on, and you don't wear the motor out. Then you can also keep the radio on when your going through the car wash and just drop the antenna.
For the antenna, unless the radio has an output that only turns on when the source is set to radio, I would consider giving it constant signal and then putting it on a switch. That way your antenna isn't up whenever the radio is on, and you don't wear the motor out. Then you can also keep the radio on when your going through the car wash and just drop the antenna.
#43
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
It really hard to guess/determine something like that, every unit is different. I would find a spec sheet, not go on what somebody told you. A 250 watt amp isn't capable of causing "gauge sputter" unless something such as bad main ground, stereo ground, or corroded battery terminals were present. It just doesn't pull the kind of current for that to happen. An amp that size pulls less than the A/C. I'd be looking for another cause for the interference.
#44
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I know I've asked this before but I have a 95 SSE and put a 250 watt rms amp to a 200 watt sub and when I turn it up a bit or even at idle and sometimes while driving I get gauge sputter. Too much for my comfort IMO. It seems that the more I drive the lower voltage I read throughout the day. I was told by someone here I'd be fine but the results I'm noticing leave me uncomfortable.... Should I consider the big 3?
Also no one as of yet had answered my question about my power antenna not going up after my aftermarket HU install with the wire I was told was for the antenna but it still won't go up. I also still have the ability, without buying an adaptor, to dim my gauge lights, which I thought was interesting
Also no one as of yet had answered my question about my power antenna not going up after my aftermarket HU install with the wire I was told was for the antenna but it still won't go up. I also still have the ability, without buying an adaptor, to dim my gauge lights, which I thought was interesting
#45
Not only does the voltage drop to almost red, since it'* runs just under 14 normally, but the fuel oil pressure and temp sputter as well.
It seems like a bad alternator, but it'* not whining. I was given a 10 guage harness for the amp I believe.
It seems like a bad alternator, but it'* not whining. I was given a 10 guage harness for the amp I believe.
#46
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Im doing the big three upgrade and im stuck in between which wire to get. KnuKonceptz makes two different types of 0 gauge, one is capable of 250 amps and the other is capable of over 300 amps. My amplifier requires 160 amps to run at full power, what do you think would work for me?
It won't sound any better but i'm sure your cars charging/electrical system would love it!
I would have no problem with them if they were honest with their customers and told them up front "we're pretty backlogged right now and it could take up to 6 weeks to get your order out to you" but that'* not what they do. You'll call Rob to make sure he got your payment and get an eta and he'll tell you "we got your payment, alt should be shipping out on tuesday so you should see it by friday" and then when friday comes around and no alt shows up you're pissed. You call him on Monday to see what'* up and he'll say something like "I didn't ship it yet, I wanted to give you a free upgrade to it to make it a little better for you but it'll go out tomorrow." This kind of crap goes on for weeks before you ever see a tracking#.
In all fairness, this is not how things play out 100% of the time but just look around on various car audio boards and you'll see that it happens alot more than it should. Great customer service doesn't include lying to customers, that would be Great customer disservice!
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