If its a factory sunroof the overhead console is there. There should be 3 buttons beside the sunroof switch.

Yes,it is,...how involved is it to get the head-liner/domelights,sunroof switch console down to work with it?

pull down along the edges of the console to remove it, there are 4 tabs to release. 3 is the programable gdo switches.


Release the wiring harness to remove the console, you should be able to fish your radar detector wires into here and tap into either the gdo(4) wiring or the sunroof (1)?

You may also want to run a remote switch for the detector. I ran my power from the overhead map light, and ran my ground down to through the pillar to the console, with a switch for the ground in the console.

If I want to kill my detectors (either of them ), I just flip a switch on the console, rather than having to fiddle with the little buttons, or reach the rear, which is impossible. They power off with the car.

hey folks we have ourselves a genious

This is just what I rember hearing, so just some info. When cops laser you, they look for something solid to shoot their laser at. Most cars they try for front/rear lisenceplates(depending on the way your going), so putting a detector closer to the dash is better for picking up a signal...

Hey PontiacDad, where do you keep getting these great diagrams? I NEED one! Are you scanning in or Online somewhere?

Have you guys seen those K40 radar difusers being sold. It'* like +$800 and comes with front and rear license plate holders which are radar difusers. There pretty cool, and for $400 extra you can get a small LCD that gets hidden IN the dash, and is pretty much undectable. K40 will aslo pay 200% of your ticket IF you get one for the first year.

Me I've got an Escort Passport and I love it, works great and is wireless. Uses 2 AA batteries every 3-4 weeks depending on my driving. I think Escort also makes the police guns too.

Hey Will that does sound like a great idea...so as for the position of your detector(*)
where do you mount them??...I mount mine just below the rear-view mirror, and would like to use your map light power idea, utilizing the wire cover that leads to the rear-view mirror to the detector. So to make a long qoute longer, could you explain a little futher to me in a "pm" if you wish, on what parts you used and how you used them...I am not very electrically inclined...I am a mechanical engineer...not a "sparky"

In theory, that sounds good. I'll start this explanation by stating my qualifications. You know I'm old, and I bought my first radar detector in 1986. Years of experience with them. I also worked for a couple years with the local cops, and now I'm a Public Safety Comissioner in Albany. I know the little details I ALSO am an R&D Laser Technician for hp. So take this as gospel:

With laser, if you get nailed on the plate (the primary target), you're hosed. Your detector can't respond fast enough. You need to pick up the scattered radiation from the car next to you or between you and the laser. To do that, you need the detector as high as possible, as the other car is blocking the bulk of the scattered radiation.

If you're running ALONE, you WILL get nailed. Try to keep a 'bait car' in front of you. Now.....because the new detectors advertise 360° 'protection', they have a little pickup eye facing the rear. If you mount your detector up high, that eye can't detect out the rear, and your mid and rear pillars block part of the detection path anyway. That'* why I run dual detectors. One in front, one in the rear. High up on the windows, where they can't be seen, either. Especially with the tint.

With RADAR, you want them as high as possible for the same reason. You don't want obstructions between you and the source (gun). Get them high so you can read over the car in front of you.

Okay, as I mentioned before, get the detectors up high. I mount my front NEXT to the mirror. The rear is as high up as possible, dead center. I don't keep the volume up high, but I can see the lights in my mirror.

For power, you'll need to plug in your cord, and use a voltmeter to determine the polarity of the cord. They're USUALLY a positive center, ground around. If you know what I mean. Now cut the big end that goes into your lighter socket, seperate the two conductors and figure out which goes to the center. In this case, we'll assume that'* positive 12Vdc. Now pull apart the overhead console, and probe for 12V with the ignition ON. Make sure it goes off with the ignition. Once you find the source, splice into it with the positive wire for your radar. Splice a ground wire onto the other wire, and tuck it through the headliner, down the A pillar (either side will work), under the dash, into the center console, and to the switch location. This wire connects to one side of the switch, and then connect another wire to the other contact, and attach it to a screw in the console assembly that goes into metal. Done.

Radio Shaq has a good selection of pretty switches. All thre of mine that I added (one for each detector, and one for the Gtech) came from there. Click on my sig pic. That'll take you to my website, and pics of my switch mounting.

Moving this thread to Audio and Aftermarket Electronics. Shadow topic will stay here.