system advice
#31
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The 12w7 is fairly new. They are a little cheaper than the13'* and sound a little cleaner as well. It is like compairing a 12" sub to a 15". The 13 plays a little lower but the 12 has a little more punch. I have not heard the 10w7 but it seems like they are showing up more. I have 3 10w6'* and do not want to spend all that money and have it no louder.
#32
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The caps lock pic is halarious.
Were to start, do some looking around here for the answers to your questions. The break light mod is from ebay, 7 bucks I think. For the clear corners, it'* not that hard, takes 45min or so per side. As for worring about condensation, DON'T, just make sure you seal it up good. I used 3 layers of Silicon. If they ever mist up just dry them out and reseal, not a big deal. I'll get around to doing the rear lights when It gets warmer out.
I choose 10w7s for couple reason'* one is that I like the tighteness of 10'* over bigger subs, space was somewhat of an issue, 12'* need bigger box and also I only (for now) wanted to get 1 JL 1000.1 amp. Read up that that'* not enough juice for 2 12w7s. It'll work, just not live up to it'* full potention like the 10s with proper power supplied.
3 10w6s will be pretty darn close to volume, the w7'* will have more SQ to them but I bet that your setup now is louder with 3 subs. More surface area to push air with. I agree with you that it'* not econmical to make the switch.
Were to start, do some looking around here for the answers to your questions. The break light mod is from ebay, 7 bucks I think. For the clear corners, it'* not that hard, takes 45min or so per side. As for worring about condensation, DON'T, just make sure you seal it up good. I used 3 layers of Silicon. If they ever mist up just dry them out and reseal, not a big deal. I'll get around to doing the rear lights when It gets warmer out.
I choose 10w7s for couple reason'* one is that I like the tighteness of 10'* over bigger subs, space was somewhat of an issue, 12'* need bigger box and also I only (for now) wanted to get 1 JL 1000.1 amp. Read up that that'* not enough juice for 2 12w7s. It'll work, just not live up to it'* full potention like the 10s with proper power supplied.
3 10w6s will be pretty darn close to volume, the w7'* will have more SQ to them but I bet that your setup now is louder with 3 subs. More surface area to push air with. I agree with you that it'* not econmical to make the switch.
#33
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so if i was to get the
Rockford Fosgate Punch 301M
150W x 1 Mono Car Amplifier
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
i could run two 4ohm Infinity 1230W subs that take a max of 300 watts rms? whould they each get 300 watts RMS?
Rockford Fosgate Punch 301M
150W x 1 Mono Car Amplifier
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
i could run two 4ohm Infinity 1230W subs that take a max of 300 watts rms? whould they each get 300 watts RMS?
#34
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no...they'd be each getting 150 watts rms
i'd say push about 500w to them
if they are single voice coil 4 ohm subs, run 2 off a rockford fosgate 1001bd or the mrv-f1000 alpine
i'd say push about 500w to them
if they are single voice coil 4 ohm subs, run 2 off a rockford fosgate 1001bd or the mrv-f1000 alpine
#36
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if you are going with rockford fosgate go with the power series instead of the punch. you will get more wattage with less battery drop. punch is the low end of RF you see everywhere but look for power its a little more expensive but it is worth the extra cost.
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