ok... your amp provided it is either a mono (class d) or stereo amp (Class A/B) SHOULD be able to operate bridged.. iw ould reccomend hooking your sup up so when you flip it over you hook one + terminal to the other + terminal ON the sub.. same for the -... thenn take ANOTHER wire, and hook it to either set of +/- (make sure you only use ONE set for this... then hook it accordingly to your termional cup in your box (im assuming you would be using a prefab box) now take your +/- wire and run it to the amp.... if your amp is a class D (mono) amp designed FOR subwoofers just hook it up + to + - to -.... if its an A/B (stereo) amp you will need to "bridge" it to one channel, the procedure for which varies depending upon the amp... i know on my older ab amps it was + to the + of the right chan, and - to the - of the left chan.. but again CHECK YOUR AMP to see if it can handle it..... this configureation will get you a resistace of 2 ohms... which will get a lil more power out of your amp...this COULD cause your amp to run hot however (if its a stereo amp) so make sure your amp can handle 2 ohms.... most can...
i suggest this setup because your actully gonn abe UNDERpowering the sub w. a 500 watt amp.i also know from experiance that the L7s can handle a bit more power than they are rated for..gettting back to the amp........ are you SURE its 500 rms on the amp and not peak.... what make/model is the amp?
if ive confused you please let me know either im me or PM me on here and i can get you a diagram if you need it.....
go FAST - 1999 Kawasaki Green Ninja ZX6R (G Variant) - Yoshimura RS3, Harris grips, spike bar ends BALD tires
go SLOWER - 2006 Ford Focus (FoFo) - Eclipse CD7000 HU, Memphis MOJO 15", USamps 2000x, Memphis 16v line driver, Polk DB570'* PPI 4420 amp