SPL, DB's, etc
10-04-2005, 05:58 PM
#12
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I just got to make a comment on capacitor'*. They are NOT worthless. I got 2 12'* and a Rockford 360Punch amp. My headlights dimmed so much at red lights you would think I was flashing my lights and my voltage was dropping down to 9 volts. So, I bought a 1.0 farad capacitor and installed it right away. My headlights do not dim at all any more. The voltage now stays at 12-13volts AND the bass sounds cleaner. Now my amp is getting a voltage of 12-13 volts instead of 9-10 volts. More volts equals more watts.
If capacitors are worthless, then why I have I seen so many SPL vehicles with them? And why would Soundstream make a 40 Farad version? I even read in a car audio book that there is no such thing as too many capacitors, the more the better.
Just gotta remember that the cap needs to be as close to the amp as possible.
If capacitors are worthless, then why I have I seen so many SPL vehicles with them? And why would Soundstream make a 40 Farad version? I even read in a car audio book that there is no such thing as too many capacitors, the more the better.
Just gotta remember that the cap needs to be as close to the amp as possible.
10-04-2005, 06:34 PM
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It'* just interesting to me that I've seen cars/trucks with big alternators, sometimes 2 alternators, 2,3,4 batteries and on top of all that voltage. Capacitors.
Besides. Not everyone has the money to buy a bigger amp alternator and more batteries. Like I said, I only have a 360 watt amp and for me the cap did fix my problem of the headlights dimming and did make the bass sound cleaner. But, if you have a 1,000 watt amp, then obviously you should upgrade the alternator and battery.
Everyone does what they want, but I when I get the system I really want, and upgrade the alt and batt, I will still have cap involved with the power because, capacitors store power and then dumps a huge charge of power into the amp instead of a steady flow.
Besides. Not everyone has the money to buy a bigger amp alternator and more batteries. Like I said, I only have a 360 watt amp and for me the cap did fix my problem of the headlights dimming and did make the bass sound cleaner. But, if you have a 1,000 watt amp, then obviously you should upgrade the alternator and battery.
Everyone does what they want, but I when I get the system I really want, and upgrade the alt and batt, I will still have cap involved with the power because, capacitors store power and then dumps a huge charge of power into the amp instead of a steady flow.
10-04-2005, 07:00 PM
#15
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A cap isnt useless but not always usefull either.
Now on a system of 360 watts and your lights dimming that bad I would run to the local auto store and have my alt and battery tested. cause one or the other isnt working to its potential.
I run 1800 real world watts not claimed. I have no dimming what so ever. I have a stock alt and a optima redtop.
As far as the cap goes its a band aid, a temporary solution. In most DB Drag classes your allowed 1 farad if you go higher than 1 farad you jump into a higher class.
Most do not use them. Again its a band aid. If you really break it down its one more thing inline that has your alternator working. It also adds resistance not allowing power to flow freely to the amp.
As far as the 20 farad and 40 farad+ caps on the market, alot of people buy into hype and also think there needed. A cap discharges at such a rate if you have something with a steady bass line it can sometimes be rendered useless since it cant charge as fast as it needs to before it discharges again.
Caps are up to the user. I personally tried one for the hell of it, no noticable anything. Sold it 2 days later. Its all up to the user but I dont recommend them. I would spend the money and time into doing the Big3 before I would install a cap.
My 2 cents.
Now on a system of 360 watts and your lights dimming that bad I would run to the local auto store and have my alt and battery tested. cause one or the other isnt working to its potential.
I run 1800 real world watts not claimed. I have no dimming what so ever. I have a stock alt and a optima redtop.
As far as the cap goes its a band aid, a temporary solution. In most DB Drag classes your allowed 1 farad if you go higher than 1 farad you jump into a higher class.
Most do not use them. Again its a band aid. If you really break it down its one more thing inline that has your alternator working. It also adds resistance not allowing power to flow freely to the amp.
As far as the 20 farad and 40 farad+ caps on the market, alot of people buy into hype and also think there needed. A cap discharges at such a rate if you have something with a steady bass line it can sometimes be rendered useless since it cant charge as fast as it needs to before it discharges again.
Caps are up to the user. I personally tried one for the hell of it, no noticable anything. Sold it 2 days later. Its all up to the user but I dont recommend them. I would spend the money and time into doing the Big3 before I would install a cap.
My 2 cents.
10-04-2005, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MrVille
I just got to make a comment on capacitor'*. They are NOT worthless. I got 2 12'* and a Rockford 360Punch amp. My headlights dimmed so much at red lights you would think I was flashing my lights and my voltage was dropping down to 9 volts. So, I bought a 1.0 farad capacitor and installed it right away. My headlights do not dim at all any more. The voltage now stays at 12-13volts AND the bass sounds cleaner. Now my amp is getting a voltage of 12-13 volts instead of 9-10 volts. More volts equals more watts.
If capacitors are worthless, then why I have I seen so many SPL vehicles with them? And why would Soundstream make a 40 Farad version? I even read in a car audio book that there is no such thing as too many capacitors, the more the better.
Just gotta remember that the cap needs to be as close to the amp as possible.
If capacitors are worthless, then why I have I seen so many SPL vehicles with them? And why would Soundstream make a 40 Farad version? I even read in a car audio book that there is no such thing as too many capacitors, the more the better.
Just gotta remember that the cap needs to be as close to the amp as possible.
10-08-2005, 03:16 PM
#17
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ibanezcollector
I'm not really sure what version they have been using. All I n\know is that it is termlab. What I do when competing is I have my back seat folded down, subs facing back, I leave the car running open the driver door, the mic is placed in the pass, side kick, I usally play around 53-56hz and that is it. Now even I have been told that I'm doing pretty good for what I have and how big my car is. I can't really tell you anything else because this is all that I do when competing. I have recently slod my subs though because they can't really handle the abuse any more. I'm going to run kicker L7 15'* soon in a vented box, then I will have to see what kind of numbers I can pull have next season. SO if you really want to follow my scores check back on USACI webpage all next year.
I'm not really sure what version they have been using. All I n\know is that it is termlab. What I do when competing is I have my back seat folded down, subs facing back, I leave the car running open the driver door, the mic is placed in the pass, side kick, I usally play around 53-56hz and that is it. Now even I have been told that I'm doing pretty good for what I have and how big my car is. I can't really tell you anything else because this is all that I do when competing. I have recently slod my subs though because they can't really handle the abuse any more. I'm going to run kicker L7 15'* soon in a vented box, then I will have to see what kind of numbers I can pull have next season. SO if you really want to follow my scores check back on USACI webpage all next year.
