Originally Posted by 96bonniessei
i think i know what happened to my tweeter..........that black thing on the back of them, would not let a current through it when i used a multimeter.............but it would let a current through the gray thing.......so that'* pry what happened to the tweeter
and it should not mess with the impedance correct? my impedance will be fine for the radio to handle?
Oh man. Sorry to barge in here, but you need a quick lesson on crossovers.
The black thing on your tweeter is a capacitor. A capacitor is two metal plates separated by a gap such that electric charge will build up on the plates. You can't pass DC current from a multimeter through a capacitor because it is physically an air gap and air is, well, a lousy conductor. But audio is not DC, it is AC, and the varying charge on the plates will pass high frequency AC current, but block low frequency AC current (think of DC as Zero Hertz AC), which makes them ideal for use as a "bass blocker" in a speaker crossover. The gray thing is a resistor to lower the overall power through the tweeter to match its output to the 5.25" larger speaker so the two don't sound like "all tweeter". Because the factory tweeter is matched to the factory 5.25" speaker, it might be a bad match for an aftermarket 5.25" full range speaker.
In a properly designed 2-way crossover, there are capacitors that block lows from the tweeter, and there are inductors (coils of insulated wire) to block highs from the woofer. When used properly, an 8 ohm tweeter and an 8 ohm woofer separated by a crossover will appear as a uniform 8 ohm load to your amplifier so your total impedance will remain unaffected.
If you don't use a crossover network, then an 8 ohm tweeter paralleled with an 8 ohm woofer will appear as a 4 ohm load to an amplifier, demanding twice as much current, which your amplifier either can or cannot provide. If it cannot, then if you're lucky it engages a protection circuit. If you're not lucky, then it catches on fire. (Really!)
If you use a random aftermarket 5.25" speaker that has both a woofer and a co-axially mounted tweeter on it, then also connecting the factory tweeter will probably give you sound that has too much tweeter high-end and add phase distortions between the two tweeters. A much more ideal setup is to buy component separates
(A prepackaged matched 5.25" woofer with a separate tweeter, and a crossover to connect the two). But these are a lot more expensive than just a good 5.25" co-axially mounted woofer+tweeter combo.
My advice is to either:
(1) Stick with factory speakers and make no other changes.
(2) Go all out and get a set of matched component separates.
(3) Find a 5.25" woofer, and buy a quality 2-way crossover from an autosound dealer to connect the woofer and factory tweeter.
(4) Get a good reasonably-priced 5.25" two-way, use that and leave the factory tweeter disconnected.
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