Remote stater (many problems) need help
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Remote stater (many problems) need help
ok so i have the ready remote system and i bypassed the VATS with relays and resistors it was working for about a month and now the car will not turn on with the key, there is no clicking of the starter and no crank, i checked all wires and replaced all relays and resistors. Any ideas?
I highly doubt this but, this was happening after i installed new 8500k headlight, high beams and fogs, could they be connected?
I highly doubt this but, this was happening after i installed new 8500k headlight, high beams and fogs, could they be connected?
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Did you wire in a starter kill? If you did, try jumping the starter wire. It sounds like the starter kill (also known as an anti-grind circuit) is always activated, therefore disconnecting the ignition switch'* starter wire. You can unplug the relay and jump the 30 and 87a pins with a piece of wire and then try to start. On my first remote start instal, I used the wrong trigger wire for my starter kill, so if the remote starter shut off, it wouldnt let me start it with the key.
Someting may have come loose, or it could be a programming thing.
Someting may have come loose, or it could be a programming thing.
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Talking to him through PM'*, i've had him disconnect the remote starter, and it is still not functioning properly.
Starter kills are normally closed- meaning that current and voltage will pass through, even when the remote starter is disabled. It only opens when the is triggered (alarm is going off).
Really.... I'd really go through and make sure all of the Pass Key/ Vats wiring is correct. You generally want to be within 5% of the resistance value (I generally shoot for 2% myself), or else you may have problems.
Starter kills are normally closed- meaning that current and voltage will pass through, even when the remote starter is disabled. It only opens when the is triggered (alarm is going off).
Really.... I'd really go through and make sure all of the Pass Key/ Vats wiring is correct. You generally want to be within 5% of the resistance value (I generally shoot for 2% myself), or else you may have problems.
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Is the starter kill in question a "On board" relay in the unit or a seperate relay ?
If its a on board relay then unpluging the harness' from the unit would not work without jumping out the starter wires to re-join it.
Not all, Starter kill / Anti grinds are passive some are active meaning that they are wired normally open.
80% of these kills are wired normally closed but there are some that are wired as open.
We need to get him to verify that the 2 sides of the starter wire go to a seperate relay not to an onboard relay like 2 black wires coming off of the unit.
Better yet just re-join the Starter wire.
Regards,
Dutch
If its a on board relay then unpluging the harness' from the unit would not work without jumping out the starter wires to re-join it.
Not all, Starter kill / Anti grinds are passive some are active meaning that they are wired normally open.
80% of these kills are wired normally closed but there are some that are wired as open.
We need to get him to verify that the 2 sides of the starter wire go to a seperate relay not to an onboard relay like 2 black wires coming off of the unit.
Better yet just re-join the Starter wire.
Regards,
Dutch
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