Remote starter, runs for 2 secs then dies. VATS problem?
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Remote starter, runs for 2 secs then dies. VATS problem?
When I installed my remote starter 4 years ago on my 92 SE, I by-passed the VATS. I did this based on something I read here I think, where you can cut the vats wire while the is running, intsall a new resistor, and let it run for a while and it will learn the new resistor. Something like that, I read its how they program it at the factory. So anyway I just cut the wire and shorted it together. I think it 'learned' that 0 ohm resistance.
Starting this fall, when I remote start the car when its pretty cold, it will fire up and run great, but only for about two seconds. Then it just dies abruptly. It will retry two more times, each time the car will run for two seconds. One time I hit the start button again, and it started and stayed running on one of the next three attempts, don't remember which. And one time I went out and started it with my key, and it stayed running just fine.
Based on my searches of this forum, I'm wondering if its the vats acting up? I read that if the vats detects a problem, the car will only have a little fuel from the initial prime. I don't have a fuel pressure guage, and I can't reliably reproduce the problem anyway, but thought I'd just see if anyone had any great ideas. Oh yea, and I don't recommend you disable the vats the way I did, just wiring the vats leads together. It worked, but my Security light was on all the time, at least for the first few years. Then I think the bulb burned out.
Thanks,
-Ryan
Starting this fall, when I remote start the car when its pretty cold, it will fire up and run great, but only for about two seconds. Then it just dies abruptly. It will retry two more times, each time the car will run for two seconds. One time I hit the start button again, and it started and stayed running on one of the next three attempts, don't remember which. And one time I went out and started it with my key, and it stayed running just fine.
Based on my searches of this forum, I'm wondering if its the vats acting up? I read that if the vats detects a problem, the car will only have a little fuel from the initial prime. I don't have a fuel pressure guage, and I can't reliably reproduce the problem anyway, but thought I'd just see if anyone had any great ideas. Oh yea, and I don't recommend you disable the vats the way I did, just wiring the vats leads together. It worked, but my Security light was on all the time, at least for the first few years. Then I think the bulb burned out.
Thanks,
-Ryan
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Good idea, but I think the bulb is burned out. It used to be on all the time, but now I don't think it ever comes on. But I'll remote it sometime when I'm in the car sometime and see.
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Originally Posted by willwren
VATS cannot stop a car that is already running.
If not the vats, any other ideas?
-Ryan
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Originally Posted by willwren
There is no learning. You have to have the right resistance that the VATS module is looking for.
You cannot have a short.
You cannot have a short.
-Ryan
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Do you have the install manual for your unit ? If not go online and download one.
Check the diagnostic section then check the parking light flashes, assuming you have them connected to your remote starter. How many times do they flash ?
Reference the # of flashes with the diagnostic chart in the install manual and start there.
From what you have stated it sounds like it is a problem with your Bypass but it could be something else like a loose connection, or programing or the unit.
Are your connections soldered or twist and tape ?
If it is your bypass spend the $20 and get this one, check the link below:
http://www.bypasskit.com/product.aspx?prodid=PLJX
Good Luck,
Dutch
Check the diagnostic section then check the parking light flashes, assuming you have them connected to your remote starter. How many times do they flash ?
Reference the # of flashes with the diagnostic chart in the install manual and start there.
From what you have stated it sounds like it is a problem with your Bypass but it could be something else like a loose connection, or programing or the unit.
Are your connections soldered or twist and tape ?
If it is your bypass spend the $20 and get this one, check the link below:
http://www.bypasskit.com/product.aspx?prodid=PLJX
Good Luck,
Dutch
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Originally Posted by zirconx
Originally Posted by willwren
There is no learning. You have to have the right resistance that the VATS module is looking for.
You cannot have a short.
You cannot have a short.
-Ryan
With my experience with adding the VATS module to Franky, it can and will stall the engine if the ECM/PCM does not see the PWM signal. No signal... no power to the injectors. The run time with this condition is aprox 2-3 seconds. However, I was able to start the vehicle because the appropriate wire going to the starter enable relay was permanently grounded. Normally, VATS disables two circuits at the same time: crank and fuel (via injectors). In Ryan'* case it certainly sounds like it'* a VATS problem due to the stalling after a couple of seconds but theoreticaly the car should not start unless the crank wire is energized after the start enable relay or there is a problem with the relay itself.