I have been studying the wiring diagrams for my car. I have a pretty good idea of which wires to use. I would like to hear some feedback from some of you who have done this install. The alarm that I have requires two 25 amp inputs. If possible I would like to keep all of the connections under the dash. Mainly I want to know which wires you decided to tap into for the various functions. I know about the VATS and have decided to permanantly bypass it with resistors. I bought the resistors that matches value of the key. If you have done this then feel free to speak up and tell me about your experience as well. Thanks for all of your help.

William

For your 12 volt constant you can use the Red & the Red/White striped wires in the ignition harness. Connect one of your wires to each.

As far as disabling the VATS I would not recommend that.
It makes your car easy to steal and if it did happen and the car was recovered, Insurance would not give you a dime for repairs.

Instead, use a standard 5 pin SPDT Bosch relay with your resistors to temporarily bypass the VATS durring the Remote start process.

Here are some helpful links for the Bypass with a relay:

Part 1
http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/im...notes/237a.jpg
Part 2
http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/im...notes/237b.jpg

Regards,
Dutch

I really dont know much about installing the device, but wanted to let you know that after I had mine installed they burned out my display to my stock stereo and they denied it. After looking on the internet and reading alot about it, I read that its a good idea to make sure your battery is disconnected when doing all this cause a power surge may burn out the lights and thats what i think happened. Luckily my extended warranty covered it and had it fixed....Good Luck!!!!

It'* not too difficult, and hopefully you know a little about wiring things up, but it would really help if you posted up what model and maybe a wiring diagram of the unit, this can help by letting us see what you are actually dealing with.

Yeah, have been wiring car stereos for about 20 years now. The wires on the brain box are quite long. I was thinking of taping the existing keyless entry area. Isn't that located on the pass side ? What kind of pulse do I use for the locks ?

So it'* seems that basically I connect the dots. It has been so cold out that I may just hook up the remote start and go from there. Anybody got a garage that they can help a fella out with in Cinci area??? lol

It'* a Scytek 5100RS-2W. Here is the wiring ...


6-Pin Starter Harness
Pin 1 RED WIRE A: Main Power Input A (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition
switch with a minimum 25 Amp supply. Remove the fuse until the installation is complete and all wiring
is checked.
Pin 2 RED WIRE B: Main Power Input B (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition
switch with a minimum 25 Amp supply. Note: if connecting at the ignition switch it is highly
recommended to use separate power wires for each Red wire, each with a minimum 30A supply.
Remove the fuse until the installation is completed and all wiring is checked.
Pin 3 BROWN WIRE: Second Ignition Output (+). The Brown wire provides +12V for a second ignition
wire. This wire may instead be programmed for use as a second accessory or second starter wire.
Pin 4 ORANGE WIRE: Accessory Output (+). Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition
switch that supplies power to the heater/air-conditioner. Some cars may have multiple accessory wires.
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: Ignition Output (+). Connect to the main ignition wire that provides +12V when the
ignition is on and while cranking the starter.
Pin 6 VIOLET WIRE: Starter Output (+). Connect to the the vehicle’* starter wire.
20-Pin Main Harness
Pin 1 GREEN/WHITE WIRE: Brake Input (+). Connect to the wire that shows +12V when pressing the
brake. The Green/white wire is a safety shutdown wire that must be connected.
Pin 2 BLACK/GRAY WIRE: Tach Input. Connect to the vehicle’* tach wire or a fuel injector wire if the
tachless mode does not provide satisfactory operation.
Pin 3 WHITE/RED WIRE: Auxiliary 2 Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay or module for an optional
feature such as power window activation, etc. This output may be programmed for momentary, timed,
or latched operation.
Pin 4 BLACK/WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to the wire that activates the
vehicle’* dome light, usually the door pin switch wire. NOTE: The dome light output can usually connect
to the same wire used for the door trigger input (see Green and Violet door trigger wires).
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: +12V Ignition Input. The Yellow wire must connect to a main ignition wire at the
ignition harness. This wire must show +12V when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter. The
voltage must not drop when the car is starting.
Pin 6 BLUE/YELLOW WIRE: Glow Plug Input (+). For vehicles equipped with diesel engines the
Blue/yellow wire must be connected to the wait-to-start light in the gauge panel. This wire will show
+12V when the light is on, and ground when the light turns off. If the wait-to-start wire shows ground
when the light is on, a relay must be installed (see wiring diagrams).
Pin 7 BLUE/WHITE WIRE: Passenger Unlock Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay to unlock the
passenger doors when the system is configured for Driver Priority Unlocking.
Pin 8 BLUE/ORANGE WIRE: Ground When Running Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to an optional factory
security bypass module if required.
Pin 9 BLACK WIRE: Ground Input (-). The Black wire must connect to a solid chassis ground. Clean away
any paint or dirt to insure the best possible ground.
Pin 10 RED WIRE: Module Power Input (+). Connect to a constant source of +12V.
Pin 11 VIOLET WIRE: Positive Door Input (+). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows +12V
Page 18 - Galaxy 5100RS-2W
when the door is open. This type of door circuit is usually found on Ford vehicles.
Pin 12 GREEN WIRE: Negative Door Input (-). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows ground
when the door is open.
Pin 13 WHITE/BLACK WIRE: Hood Pin Input (-). Connect the to the hood pin switch. The switch must
provide a ground output when switch is opened.
Pin 14 ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500 mA. The Orange wire provides a ground output while armed
to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection.
Pin 15 VIOLET/WHITE WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. The Violet/white wire provides a ground
output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the
wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.
Pin 16 WHITE/VIOLET WIRE: Factory Rearm Output (-) 500 mA. The White/violet wire provides a ground
output on remote start shutdown to rearm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires
a ground pulse to rearm the factory security system.
Pin 17 BROWN WIRE: Siren Output (+) 3A. The Brown wire must connect to the siren’* red wire. The Black
siren wire must be grounded.
Pin 18 GRAY WIRE: Auxiliary 1 Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay for an optional feature such as trunk
release, etc. This output may be programmed for momentary, timed, or latched operation.
Pin 19 WHITE WIRE: Parking Light Output (+/-) relay. Connect the White wire to the circuit that shows
+12V or ground only when the parking lights are on and set the internal parking light relay jumper to
the proper polarity. For parking light circuits exceeding 10 amps, a relay is required. For vehicle’* with
independent left and right parking light circuits, diodes must be installed to keep the circuits separate.
NOTE: Do not connect the WHITE wire to the vehicle’* headlight circuit.
Pin 20 BROWN/WHITE WIRE: Horn Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay to activate the vehicle’* horn
when the alarm is triggered. This wire may instead be programmed as an ignition 3 relay trigger.

Here'* a DIY I did for the W-body guy'*. Should be pretty similar for these cars, as GM is pretty universal, and doesn't really change much up.

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=64623.0

Wow, thats an awesome write up. I am ready to tackle it as soon as it gets a little warmer. Is my trunk release a positive release too ? You list two ignitions are those needed on my install as well ? I don't care about hooking up the climate controlst right now, but if I did decide that I wanted to use it later, then would you reccomend finding two seperate circuits to connect too? I though of using the secondary heavy duty output put to close my sunroof. How would I design a system that only activates if the glass was open ? Thanks for all fo your help.

Use a low current output, with a relay, for your sunroof/windows.

The entire point of a remote start is to get the car warmed up/cooled down, so hook up both ignition'*, and both accessorie'* if required for your vehicle.

The whole point for me is to warm the engine, so it is up to operating temperature, IMO. You didn;t answer any of my questions, so please review them and respond to each one, if you dont mind. Respectfully

William

Yes, trunk is positive output. Black or Black/White at the switch, test it.

Your vehicle only has 1 ignition, so only hook up only 1 ignition.

Your climate controls should automatically come on when you hook up your accessory line.

As far as your sunroof, you can use a high output, but you may need a relay, depending on the polarity of the switch. I would also be weary, as most accessories, like your sunroof, are not that high of amperage, so using a high output may be a bit too much. I generally use the low current outputs with relay'* to do stuff like that (sunroof, windows, defroster, fuel door, heated seats, etc...).

You could do it with some sort of pressure switch. Otherwise, that make sunroof and window modules that you can wire into your system. They are pretty universal.