But i change equipment so often... i dont know if itll be worth it.
But anyhow I was thinking about building a ported enclosure for my 2 15" JL W0'*

I think i like these dimensions
36 inches wide X 30 inches deep X 17 inches tall

with port dimensions of
3 inches tall X 34 inches wide X 22 inches deep

Which will give me 8.82 cu feet total. And a tuned frequency of 36.34

Should work about perfect for these subs

I wonder if i can cut all the pieces out of only two pieces of 3/4" 4x8 sheets of MDF?

Let me know what u think.

What did you use to get those numbers? Also. 8.82 cubic feet is massive. I have a 3.25 cubic foot box in the trunk of my Regal and its pretty damn huge.

Torres Calculator

I just did a little measuring in my trunk.. I got 17" inches from the trunk floor to the bottom of the 6x9'* (also same height as current box) Width is normal.. and yes the box is deep at 30 inches but i want a HO box

Well, figure out how big a sheet of MDF is. The last calculator I used also included the size of the panels you would need to cut, so you can figure it out that way.

It shows me what i need to cut each piece of wood too.. I added it up and itll be just over two sheets i believe.

They might have some scrap MDF where you buy it that you might be able to use instead of buying an entire 3rd sheet. That, or you can scale down the size of your box to fit within 2 sheets of MDF.

When you're building a box, the important spec to pay attention to is net volume, not gross. Net volume is the final internal volume your speakers will "see". Gross volume is about as useful as the max power rating on an amp.

In order to give you any real help or suggestions I'd need to know what type of box you're building and it'* orientation, how much power you're going to be giving the subs and the sub specs. As for box, it'* obvious it'* a ported box so that'* not the answer i'm looking for. I mean are you doing a standard ported box w/subs and port on the baffle? Are the subs going to be firing up with the port coming out the bottom of the box and is that port firing out the back or the front?

When building a box that big and with subs that big, it would be a good idea to add some bracing to the box so it doesn't flex, that'* going to take up internal volume as well as the subs themselves so obviously that'* going to change your net volume and tuning. Also, you have to consider how many baffles you're going to have because that will effect your measurements and volume too. Double baffles are good for two things, being able to flush mount your subs and strengthening the baffle so it doesn't flex.

You also have to be aware of how many "common port walls" your box will have, that also affects tuning and volume. You have a long way to go before you're ready to start cutting and building. You really need to get sub specs so you can find out their displacement, calculate bracing displacement, rethink your specs. Let me know if you have any questions though, I got you

the subs will be firing back, toward my taillights. and the port will be a slot port on the same face as the subs, right above the subs actually.
I made the box a little large to compensate for sub volume, ect. I was going to add a couple small braces but not to concerned since subs r only 500w max and only receiving 150w RMS each. its not a high power system. Just want to get some air flowing, and a correct tune.

I should of built a box for my last system. My box was janky but still ungodly loud. 2 12" HX2'* and 2 12" P3'* with a 2000w Alpine amp. Subs firing up. but box was tooo small and sealed