As long as you send the right frequency to the speakers you are not going to have a problem with them. Remember that it is very hard to blow up a speaker with power (watts). Speakers blow because of heat caused by distortion and/or not enough power. I ran 75 watts RMS from my 300/4 to my stock speakers until I could afford my components.

Although a common misconception, a gain swich is not a volume control. It just regulates the input voltage. It is dangerous to some speakers to play with gains on some amps.

That is assuming the gain control a real gain control (on cheaper amps it is just a boost control). If it is a bass bost type of thing it is fine.

Your gains should never be touched after you tune your amp to the output voltage of the HU.

I dont know the particulars on the speaker setup but I do know that your rear speakers are 10 ohm which is high compared to aftermarket. This can be a bad thing becuase you must turn the volume up more to get volume out of the speakers. There should be 2 wires per speaker.

Front Components I do not know the load, I might be careful because if the stock midbass speakers up front are 10ohm and you throw some 4ohm coax in there it might be hard on the HU forcing a lower load. I think you would be fine though, it would probably melt the x-overs for the stock comps before frying your deck.

Here'* the low down. There'* one channel of wiring going into the door for cars with the factory components. The 5.25"'ers hook up directly to that.

It was my tweeters, the actual speakers I blew, not he crossover. I tested that because I wanted to give my brother the tweeters, but they were history.

The rear 6x9'* have two sets of wires. One is for one coil (mids and whatnot) and the other is for the 2nd coil, the "bass" from the "amp" that delco made for GM. I forget which is which. In fact, I just guessed and checked with my car when I installed.

Okay, the "gain" slider deal, that'* a variable resistor. Properly wired, between the output of the HU and the amp inputs, it works. It can't damage a thing if connected properly (as in, dont' hook up the illumination wires that make it glow orange/red to your amp or some dumb thing like that!). However, it might not give you the results you expected.

Scenarios: A) it works perfect, which won't happen. B) the output is always lower than you'd expect, C) the relationship between slider position and sub volume is NOT linear (it all of the sudden gives tons of bass with little movement, and vice versa) and then there'* D) a combination of B and C that most will experience.

Give it a shot, if you like the results, super! Otherwise, if enough people bug me, I'll desing a simple circuit that will convert the slider into a useful tool for most subs. But not until January...finals are coming up!