PAC SWI-X
#1
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PAC SWI-X
I've had the PAC SWI-X for quite a while, just never bothered to hook it up. So I wired everything in today, all my connections are good. When I program the buttons, it only remembers the first function. So, if I program volume up first, the try volume down and all the other buttons on the steering wheel give me increased volume. This is the same no matter which button I do first. I followed the directions exactly. I am using the interface version #1. Has anyone else run into this problem? The HU is a panasonic, which *should* be 100% compatible. No other aftermarket equipment hooked up.
#2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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After you program the first function it'* supposed to blink or light up.... and then you do the next..and blink/light up..
is it doing that?
Where are you mounting the led? My kenwood was super picky about being in the field of view.
is it doing that?
Where are you mounting the led? My kenwood was super picky about being in the field of view.
#3
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Ok this is a bit tricky...
First thing: clear the prom and set for function #1 AGAIN
Restart the PAC and start the program mode.
The (my shakey memory) LEFT led lights and awaits a button press
IF the right LED lights up your already skrew'd... The steering
wheel itself will send resistance down the wire!.....
So re-center the steering wheel and enter program mode again
Left LED lights.... (you have 5-7seconds) you should be able
to sit and do NOTHING and the led'* will flash and program...
(this is good no stray resistance on the wire) If this happens
your golden...
Press program.... Left lights up.... Press button - Right lights
then left again.... Button - light - button - light (I think-been a spell)
If this is a Bonne 2K or newer do NOT use the far left pair
(to left of scan) these codes are randomly sent when the
wheel is turned (when breaking) and I'm actually waiting
a responce from PAC to resolve (either a different mode
or a filter cap donno...)
So code thoes 2 (must code ALL buttons) to like Zero
on the remote or some useless function
When your done programmin' & dont touch it - both
lights flash and it'* programmed. It'* a little flakey but
you'll get the knack... You might have to "factory reset"
the mode a few times but you'll get her.
You can hit this tool for more help...
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/swicalculator.htm
Grab the multi-meter and get the resistance of the wheel
and all the buttons.... might need a different base resistance
(mode) to have better control. I have'nt measured up mine
but might before to long so perhaps we can post results
and come up with a better means of programmin/installin'
Be patient REAL PATIENT
Your close to gettin' it!
First thing: clear the prom and set for function #1 AGAIN
Restart the PAC and start the program mode.
The (my shakey memory) LEFT led lights and awaits a button press
IF the right LED lights up your already skrew'd... The steering
wheel itself will send resistance down the wire!.....
So re-center the steering wheel and enter program mode again
Left LED lights.... (you have 5-7seconds) you should be able
to sit and do NOTHING and the led'* will flash and program...
(this is good no stray resistance on the wire) If this happens
your golden...
Press program.... Left lights up.... Press button - Right lights
then left again.... Button - light - button - light (I think-been a spell)
If this is a Bonne 2K or newer do NOT use the far left pair
(to left of scan) these codes are randomly sent when the
wheel is turned (when breaking) and I'm actually waiting
a responce from PAC to resolve (either a different mode
or a filter cap donno...)
So code thoes 2 (must code ALL buttons) to like Zero
on the remote or some useless function
When your done programmin' & dont touch it - both
lights flash and it'* programmed. It'* a little flakey but
you'll get the knack... You might have to "factory reset"
the mode a few times but you'll get her.
You can hit this tool for more help...
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/swicalculator.htm
Grab the multi-meter and get the resistance of the wheel
and all the buttons.... might need a different base resistance
(mode) to have better control. I have'nt measured up mine
but might before to long so perhaps we can post results
and come up with a better means of programmin/installin'
Be patient REAL PATIENT
Your close to gettin' it!
#4
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Thanks for the help. I followed your directions (and PAC'*) and I am still having the same issue. Everyone else used program #1 right? I did not use resistors and I read somewhere when I got it that I would not need them. Plus I do not know much electrical wiring. I am going to contact PAC, because their FAQ did not talk about my issue. Thanks guys, any more suggestions keep em coming.
Yes, the lights light up exactly like they should, during and after programming. However, when I test it, only the first programmed function works. As for the LED, I just have it temp mounted on my shifter with tape holding it in place, pointing directly at the head unit. I held the remote 3-4 inches from the swi-x module when programming.
I used the green wire from the PAC to the light greeen wire on the factory wiring. I did not cut the two loops (brown and purple I believe). My wiring should be correct, as it'* getting signals from the steering wheel and the remote, but just not programming the functions properly.
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
After you program the first function it'* supposed to blink or light up.... and then you do the next..and blink/light up..
is it doing that?
Where are you mounting the led? My kenwood was super picky about being in the field of view.
is it doing that?
Where are you mounting the led? My kenwood was super picky about being in the field of view.
I used the green wire from the PAC to the light greeen wire on the factory wiring. I did not cut the two loops (brown and purple I believe). My wiring should be correct, as it'* getting signals from the steering wheel and the remote, but just not programming the functions properly.
#5
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Just a quick update, still doing the same ****. No response from PAC. Tucked the wires back away and I'll try again in the spring. I went months without the controls, guess its not a big deal.
#6
nah we will get it...
i did this at one time.. and i know i messed up also... had to start over...
are you sure you are doing the correct steps between the different buttons.. read REAL slow
i did this at one time.. and i know i messed up also... had to start over...
are you sure you are doing the correct steps between the different buttons.. read REAL slow
#9
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Originally Posted by HowY
nope dude you cut one of the loops....
check the 2k sticky the pinout is there
otherwise you sound good....
check the 2k sticky the pinout is there
otherwise you sound good....
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