I've never looked for instructions... its pretty straight forward though, especially for a sealed box. I can spec it out for you, with cutsheet and all if you want me to. As for building it, first thing obviously is make the cuts per cut sheet. I always build with the bottom of the box as my foundation... so grab one side piece at a time and hold it in place using a 90 degree clamp so its aligned properly and then u can predrill your holes. Make sure u mark how the pieces go together so when all ur predrilling is done you'll know how to put it back together. Repeat the process for all sides. After all ur predrilling is done its time to start assembly. Starting with the bottom laid down grab the back board align it in place on the bottom clamp it with a couple 90 degree clamps then loosen just the side thats holding the back board and pull the board out, lay down a healtuy bead of glue where the board is gonna go and put the board back in place and clamp it down. Put ur screws in to keep the boards clamped together, release the clamps and move on to the sides, then the top.

All that will be left now is the baffle (u might want to do 2 baffles if u want the subs to be flush mounted). Lay the box on its back run a healthy bead of glue along the edges where the baffle is gonna butt up against align it in place, screw it in and let it dry. After its dry u can cut out the openings for the subs and speaker terminals (or u can just use bolts instead much more secure). Wire up the box, connect wire to subs, screw them in and get that thing playing!

Download Torres Calculator. Its a small file. Everything you need but not overly complicated

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...=0#entry551556

If you could get me some measurements for these, that would be awesome!

I'd like to have the sides offset a little like they have on other boxes to make it easier to pull out of my trunk when I need to. I'd like the boxes to be as short as possible. I don't mind them being a little longer, but the shorter the better so they can clear my rear strut tower bar.

What advantage is there in using two baffles?

Sure thing! I'll do it up for you this evening when i get home. All i need u to do is give me a height measurement, from the trunk floor to the bottom of the strut bar.

Double baffle adds strength to the baffle to prevent it from flexing and also allows you to flush mount yor subs to give the box a clean, custom look. It'll look especially clean if you use a roundover bit around the sub opening like on my box. In this case it'll just be for looks since your box will be so small that flexing and/or strength won't likely be an issue.

Awesome. I'll get you the height adjustment tonight.

Any comments on this amp?

http://www.amazon.com/Earthquake-600.../dp/B0007VRJ2Y

Someone offered to trade me one for the 15" sub. I'm thinking not really, but figured I'd ask anyway.

Yeah, no! And not just cause of the brand name either, Earthquake did make some decent amps back in the day but thats not one of them.

Alright man, this is what I came up with

12.5" tall x 12.5" deep x 25.5" wide

If you were to plug these numbers in to the Torres calculator you'd end up with 1.58 cubes, but i'm giving you a 1/2" offset on the sides to allow for easy removal. That takes 1" off the overall width, which would give you 1.51 cubes after displacement. Can't get much closer than that!

The Torres calc. has a cut sheet built in but I don't build boxes off that cause the baffle ends up being bordered by the top/bottom of the box, meaning you'd see the edges of the top/bottom panels on the face of the box. Not a good look, IMO. So this is my cut sheet

Bottom/Top - 25.5" wide x 11.75" tall
Back - 25.5" wide x 11" tall
Sides - 11" x 11"
Front (baffle) - 25.5" wide x 12.5" tall (do two of these if you want your subs flush mounted)

Doing your cuts this way will result in the face of the box having no border or edges and the box will be stronger as well due to screws being driven into the face of the box instead of around it'* edges. But don't fret, whether you wrap the box in carpet or not, you'll be filling in the screw holes with wood filler for a smooth surface when it'* all said and done.

Is that the shortest you can make it? Not sure how tall these subs are, but if that'* the shortest, I'll just go with it.

The alpine amp, the kicker amp, and the mint condition R12 are now in my garage. The Hifonics amp and the hifonics sub are both gone. The guy was pretty impressed with how loud it is.

The Alpine amp is quite a bit smaller than the hifonics amp, but it seems to be great quality and its in good shape.

you got a good deal.