I just bought a remote starter. Its a ProStart CT-3200 without door locks or alarm. Paid 50 bucks for it on sale, regular 109.

There seems to be ALOT of wires! Im guessing the plugs that came with it do not have a female plug to go into in a 95 Bonnie? That would be too simple.

Oh i get it now, the plugs that are on the harnesses just plug into the remote starter unit.. So its all wires that will need to be spliced...

Has anyone donet his on their own before, and if so anybody have some instructinos because the book that came with it doesnt exactly explain how to install, just says what the wires do....

Where do i find the ignition harnesses in the car, and the wires i need to tap into?

Man this looks really difficult.... But i dont want to spendmoney to have a dealer install it.

it would be helpful to have a FSM or a diagram of the wires that explains the colors and the location of them

alright its not really that hard to install. Just make sure you have a soldering iron, electrical tape, wire cutters and strippers and some way to bypass the vats system (decoder module or resistor).

all of these wires will be bundled under your steering column

2 Red wires are your +12v constant
Pink is your ignition wire
Orange is your accessory wire which is air conditioning/heating
Yellow is your starter

The brake turn off wire should be connected to a light blue wire that is connected to the brake pedal.

If you want it to flash your parking lights you will have to tap into the brown wire of your headlight control switch.

For it to turn on your dome lights (if you want it, not really needed), you will need a relay to power it.

To bypass vats module you need to either install a module for it or wire in a resistor into the vats wiring. It is in a small tube not sure what color, im thinking white but im not completely sure. This tube contains two really thin wires. Then wire in your resistor that matches your key with a relay if you want the vats to still be effective for theft reasons or get a module that decodes the vats resistances. You will need to bypass the vats system or your car will not start. Vats controls the fuel pump and you will not be able to start your vehicle unless the vats computer sees the correct resistance.

Good luck. Trust me it seems really complicated but when you get into it its really not that difficult. I installed my Viper 791 alarm and it seriously had so many wires i thought i would go insane, but i made it through it and it works perfectly.

Be sure to put the open hood kill switch in a spot that actually works too. A friend of mine just installed a remote starter and the switch wasn't being pushed down with the hood closed so the starter would work. Moved it and inch to the left, and presto! Works great.

alright. Well on the box it says a proffessional should install it or all warranty coverage is void
Stupid companies trying to cover their own asses.. Oh and get this, any damages caused by their unit in any way that is not to the unit is not considered their problem... HAHA

yes the company isnt going to responsible for some people hooking up a wrong wire and end up blowing or breaking something

Just a few comments to add here:

To be specific, it'* the _light_ yellow wire. The bright yellow wire that'* probably off by itself is the airbag lead. Try to remember the difference.

Instructions for getting at the headlight switch can be found in the TechInfo section. There is also another article there about the wiring colors in and around the ignition and other places that you need to locate for the remote starter.

This depends on the type of connection provided by the remote starter. The dome lights go on by grounding. If the wire from the remote starter provides a negative (ground) path when it'* activated, you can connect it directly to the dome light ground side and it'll turn the lights on.

If the wire from the remote starter provides a positive current flow instead, you will need to use that to operate a relay, which in turn will close a ground path for the dome lights.

In the '93 models and probably other years as well, it is an orange sleeve that looks like just another wire, but slice it open lengthwise and you will find two thin white wires inside it. If you get a VATS bypass kit, it will have instructions on what to connect. You might need to get back to us on this and tell us whether the kit you have now actually mentions this in your instructions.

For the hood interlock, I installed the plunger switch near the hood latch, a little to the passenger'* side in a spot where it'* visible through the grille (which made aligning it easier), where there were two holes already stamped. The plunger switch went in one hole, and a nylon cable tie through the other hole secured the wiring harness. I actually ran a double wire through the firewall and out to that spot: one conductor was the ground interlock to the pin switch for the hood, and the other conductor continued on over to the coil pack, where it connected to the Tach lead (a white wire, fifth from the right end of the connector as viewed from in front of the car).

Yeah, it'* not difficult, but it is time-consuming to trace all the wires you need to find, etc. Don't give yourself an immovable deadline by which time you need to finish the car, because you won't be done by then.

Previously I wrote:

Okay, here you go:

Headlight switch R&R:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=39

Wiring color codes, including Tach input and Factory Alarm Shutdown Wire:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=84

The picture that popped into my mind...

Push button on remote - BOOM - Wheel and dash explode......


sorry, back to the topic.....

the airbag wire is by itself not bundled under the steering column with all the others and it also has a tag on it saying SIR and a warning on it.