Here is one for you guys. I decided to put in a couple aftermarket amps and bypass my bose amp all together. Ofcourse I am changing all the speakers also. But the problem here that has got me befuzzled is as soon as I cut my harnesses to my bose amp and hooked up the pink wire which is remote turn on, to the new amps remote function terminal, the radio powered up and will not go off. I am very confused about this. I think it might remedy the problem if I leave the bose amp installed and leave the remote turn on wire to it also, and keep a ground to the amp. But, who wants to do that? I want to get it out of the car all together. Any suggestions? Anyone experienced this before? I had to pull the audio fuse for the night until I can figure out what the heck is causing this.

Anybody? I would love to know what is making this do this.

try to grab a ignition signal from the dash for your remote instead of the one from the amp. It sounds like its backfeading so just get your own source that isnt ran to something else first

That is exactly my thoughts to the situation. I'm gonna grab a diagram of the trunk area and see if I can find something off the rear module that is switched by the ignition. Thanks. J

I used the ignition on/off (yellow???) wire on the back of my stock headunit to turn my amps on/off. It works just fine. I left the stock bose amp in place and still plugged in... its just not being used.

Found an ignition source in the fuse box under rear seat. However, I still have problems that I didn't expect. Everything is in place (except the front speakers and the rear door speakers). AMps in place, subs in place, 6x9 rockfords in place, all hooked up. Took the inputs to the bose amp and rerouted them to RCA pigtails and plugged them into each amp. Now, when I turn the volume up and it starts to thump, the sound cuts out and it starts "pulsing" the speakers with some kinda weird high pitched sound, like it has tons of interference. NO INTERFERENCE when I have sound to speakers. I turn it back down and it starts working ok again. I am really confused about the cause of this problem. I intstalled a GMOS-09 interface to head unit so I could keep factory chimes, and it was supposed to keep the power on til you open the door, etc. Well, nothing is working right since I took the amp inputs off the bose. I just don't get it. I am afraid the problem may lye within the GMOS-09 expecting a certain amount of resistance from the amp inputs and what I am giving it something different. I don't know, just a theory. ONE THING that MIGHT be the problem is the fact that I have not changed the door speakers yet. They are still factory bose 2 ohm speakers compared to all my others are 4 ohm. Now, I know its not gonna be exactly right until I get those replaced. But could or would that cause the sound to cut out as volume increases and start this pulsing stuff? When it pulses, it pulses at the same volume of noise even if you turn it all the way down until it recovers then nothing and you can turn it back up. That kinda makes me think it might be in the GMOS-09 interface because when I shut that volume down, it ought to kill any noise and it doesn't when it is pulsing. The GMOS-09 keeps a volume up for your chimes etc. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. J

does that interference noise go up in pitch as you accelerate and down in pitch when you deccelerate? Engine noise? or some other form of evil? I am just a little lost and want to make sure that I know what you really have in your car. Aftermarket headunit intergrating into the factory bose system? replaced rear deck speakers but have factory speakers up front? right? first thing id do is completely eliminate the factory amp from the equasion just like black99se has done

I did completely eliminate the factory amp. I know the problem HAS to be the GMOS-09 interface attached to the headunit because EVERYTHING runs through it before it makes its way back to trunk. But I think I brainstormed a way to fix it without actually removing my headunit again. I will pull the cigarette lighter/tray out and unplug the RCA cables from the GMOS and run separate RCA cables directly from headunit to amps, then I will Cut the power wire that comes from GMOS to headunit and tie it directly to ignition wire at switch and pickup remote amp turn on directly from radio and bypass GMOS for that also. I will leave everything else the same to retain VSS wire and so forth. It should work, I don't see how it couldn't. But if it doesn't, plan B is get rid of GMOS completely. I have a couple exams over today and tomorrow so I probably won't get to it til Wed. I will post what happens. J

Today I will run new RCA cables from head unit to amps and bypass that gmos09 integration module completely, also gonna ground ebrake wire while I am at it and new wire from ignition to head unit for power. i will test it all before i put anything back in this time. J

Ok, I ran the new RCA cables, and a new remote amp turn on wire from the ignition switch itself and everything works EXACTLY as it should and sounds great. Except that now I get that annoying engine sound when the vehicle is running. It revs up and down with the engine. I don't know how that happened seeing that the amp wire doesn't run anywhere near the RCA cables, but the remote turn on wire runs with the RCA'* but I don't see how that would do it. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Just want it fixed. Thanks. J