OK... I saw the part that says 8" - 10" subs and assumed than you would be gettin an amp to power them.. and therefore asked bout the line converter ( if you do want to keep your stock deck ).

FYI: most descent component systems come with a cross over (either active or passive) this way you hook them up to existing (factory) wires. If you are putting in a sub of any kind you need an amp to drive that, and if you are running a factory head unit you need an amp with High Level Input, or you need line level converters to plug the amp into (will convert the amplified sound coming out of the radio into line level for proper amplificiation)

What does the line converter do? I though I could just hook up an amp to the existing wires in the back. Is this wrong. Will I need to run bigger wires from the stereo to the amp? What about spliting the rear wires to place speakers in the rear doors. I was just going to pigtail wires before the amp to the rear doors. I might be going about this all wrong. I want to put speakers in the doors if I put 8'* or 10'* in the back, that way I can turn off the amp and still have sound in the back. I guess I have lots of questions before I get started.

DRIFTER! WELCOME BACK!

sorry, that was a little random...

Okay, if your going to bash me for suggeting you get component speakers, so be it. It'* your loss in sound quality, not mine.

If you putting subwoofers, you will need an amplifier with Speaker/high level inputs. You don't do any splicing off of currently connections, because that is bad for the head unit which i would imagine wasn't designed for connection to an outboard amplifier. Splicing wires changes the resistance which could fry your head unit, but do what you want. Hell you can even have all speakers run off one chanell if you want! Just get a few 2000watt mono amps wire them to each other, wire up all the channels to the last amp in the seqence, and hook up all your speakers to it'* output. Keep the stock speakers, or you can hook up some speaker wires to a signal light so when ever you turn up your music, the light will light up.. Who knows, might sound good for all we know....

Calm down danpuzak I am just trying to get some info don't worry about what others think. I just want what is going to sound the best. As for splicing off wires how can I get speakers in the rear doors as well as subs in the back without splicing wires somewhere. I wouldn't want to amplify the door speakers just the subs.

I just refer to the line level converter as it is usually wat most amp will work with. Tru that there is amps that will take hi level input. I have yet to try that on any of mine ( previously before they got broken into ) You did bring up a good question as to ohms drop from splicing. What would the ohms be to feed a hi level input vs. a line level converter? I imagine that using hi level input would result the same as hookin up another pair of speakers ( which I think would drop it from 4 ohms to 2? ) wheras with a converter it will draw last amperage.. but haven't tried to measure or tested it. but again is something I haven't looked into or tried, or the line level converter. ( I cheated on my previous my splicing the RCA wires with 2 splitters ). But I would like the electrical guru'* input on the ohms.

MACHO_Mike
Thanx I haven't been here for a while.. and been really busy with work that I haven't had much time to invest in here.. sniff sniff.. haven't had enough BC fix ever

ok...if you want the subs amplified only and not hte speakers and you wnat to use the factory HU...then you have to find the speaker line for right and left somewhere...could be at the HU if you wanted and hook it up...its called high level inputs...its so you can hook a system up to factory HU....anyways they are on most amps...need a positive..(bat) then neg...then R+ and L- and you can do that at the head unit if you want i believe...

what bout ohms if you put it into a hi level input on amps AND powering your rears?

Dont forget, without an aftermarket head unit there will be no remote turn on signal for the amp. He would have to wire the amp to a fuse that powers on with the car, or rig it to a switch to turn on and off manually...

There are a lot of advantages for upgrading your stock headunit, it should be the first thing you do not the last...

I know money can be tight, just my opinion.