2000+ Head Unit harness
05-09-2010, 12:06 AM
#1
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2000+ Head Unit harness
Well, I've looked at several existing threads on this, but I'm still not sure which harness to go with for my headunit. I've got an aftermarket headunit from my previous car that I want to put in the Bonneville, I could care less about onstar, but I would like to retain the factory chimes, if I have to install an extra speaker for that, then so be it. What I'd like to do is change the headunit and leave the rest factory for now until I upgrade the speakers and amps. I've got the Monsoon stereo and if I have to do it all at once then I will, I just want to know what I'm getting into from the start. Any help is appreciated.
GMOS-09 amplifier interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory. Works with or without onstar and provides navigation wires.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
GMOS-05 non - amplified interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory. Works with or without onstar and provides navigation wires.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
GMOS-04 non - amplified, non - onstar interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory through an on board speaker.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
Brent
GMOS-09 amplifier interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory. Works with or without onstar and provides navigation wires.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
GMOS-05 non - amplified interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory. Works with or without onstar and provides navigation wires.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
GMOS-04 non - amplified, non - onstar interface harness. Retains chimes and accessory through an on board speaker.
http://retailer2.installationexcelle...hicleid=202415
Brent
06-02-2010, 05:12 PM
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Well, I decided to go with the GMOS-09, but I've been pretty disapointed. I hook it up and everything powers up, but it doesn't power down and I have no sound and no chimes. I haven't troubleshot the sound problem yet, but I have found that I'm not getting a switched 12V turn on. Instead I get 10V all the time which is turning on the headunit. I'm almost ready to chuck the think out a window at this point, because I finally got the time to work on this and it'* only caused me problems. If anyone has any ideas about why this isn't working, please let me know. My next step is to contact the Ebay seller about getting a replacement or a refund.
Here are the connections I have made.
Note that key is not in the ignition and the door is open. There shouldn't be any voltage on this red wire.
Brent
Here are the connections I have made.
Note that key is not in the ignition and the door is open. There shouldn't be any voltage on this red wire.
Brent
Last edited by Brent; 06-02-2010 at 05:13 PM.
06-02-2010, 07:04 PM
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Hey Brent
you have 2 problems, one can be fixed and the other cant
#1- no sound.
the GMOS-09 was made for Bose not Monsoon, and both amps are different, so to get the GMOS-09 working you have to cut one of the wires going to amp remote signal wire. there are three wires connceted togeher (blue wires Pin A3 A6 and B3), you have to cut the wire going to pin A6 which is Radio On Signal, not sure what that is exactly but i think its the signal that tells the radio to be quiet so onstar can kick in. so cut the wire circled in red in the picture below. it worked for me on 2 GMOS-09 harness and one PAC harness so it should work for you
thanks to ddalder, i have this
#2- harness not shutting off
i had the same problem 2 weeks after having my pioneer HU, i have no idea what went wrong when i was trying by pass it and it wont shut off no more, i measured it like you did and had the exact same readings. i took it back to the shop got a new one and everything worked fine.
so im pretty sure your harness is fried, get a new one. its covered under warranty
i know it must be frustrating right now but good things take time, get the new harness and you will now be dissapointed, i wasnt on this forum when i did mine i have like 3 threads and each was like 6 pages long on the other forum pontiac bonneville club.com and i had the same problems as you now, took me over 3 months to get it all together and working cause no one had it changed before i guess lol
but it was all worth it at the end
you also have to cut a little bit out of the dash cavity to fit it in, be careful not to cut any wires, they are really tight in there
you can use whatever you want from tools such as a dremel, saw and more
i used a drill
my old pioneer HU
you have 2 problems, one can be fixed and the other cant
#1- no sound.
the GMOS-09 was made for Bose not Monsoon, and both amps are different, so to get the GMOS-09 working you have to cut one of the wires going to amp remote signal wire. there are three wires connceted togeher (blue wires Pin A3 A6 and B3), you have to cut the wire going to pin A6 which is Radio On Signal, not sure what that is exactly but i think its the signal that tells the radio to be quiet so onstar can kick in. so cut the wire circled in red in the picture below. it worked for me on 2 GMOS-09 harness and one PAC harness so it should work for you
thanks to ddalder, i have this
Originally Posted by ddalder
Okay, here’* the information on the radio DNL connector (w/ RPO UZ8 – Monsoon). This should apply from 2002-05.
A1 – PPL – Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)
A2 – PPL – Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)
A3 – PNK – 14V Reference
A4 – RED – FM Composite Signal
A5 – Not Used
A6 – PNK – Radio On Signal
A7 – LT BLU/BLK – Cellular Telephone Voice Low Reference
A8 – DK BLU – Cellular Telephone Voice Signal
A9 – BLK/WHT – Audio Common
A10 – BRN/WHT – Left Audio Signal (+), *-Band Receiver and/or CDX
A11 – DK GRN/WHT – Right Audio Signal (+), *-Band Receiver and/or CDX
A12 – BRN/WHT – LR Low Level Audio Signal (+)
A13 – BRN – LR Low Level Audio Signal (-)
A14 – LT GRN – RF Low Level Audio Signal (-)
A15 – LT GRN/BLK – RF Low Level Audio Signal (+)
A16 – BLK/WHT – Ground
B1 – ORN – Battery Positive Voltage (Live at all times)
B2 – ORN – Battery Positive Voltage (Live at all times)
B3 – WHT – Antenna Enable Signal
B4 – YEL – Backlight Lamps Control
B5 – BLK – Ground
B6 – PPL – Amplifier Present Signal
B7 – Not Used
B8 – Not Used
B9 – Not Used
B10 – Not Used
B11 – Bare – Ground (Audio Drain Wire)
B12 – TAN – LF Low Level Audio Signal (+)
B13 – DK GRN – LF Low Level Audio Signal (-)
B14 – BLK – RR Low Level Audio Signal (-)
B15 – DK BLU – RR Low Level Audio Signal (+)
B16 – BLK/WHT – Ground
A1 – PPL – Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)
A2 – PPL – Class 2 Serial Data (Primary)
A3 – PNK – 14V Reference
A4 – RED – FM Composite Signal
A5 – Not Used
A6 – PNK – Radio On Signal
A7 – LT BLU/BLK – Cellular Telephone Voice Low Reference
A8 – DK BLU – Cellular Telephone Voice Signal
A9 – BLK/WHT – Audio Common
A10 – BRN/WHT – Left Audio Signal (+), *-Band Receiver and/or CDX
A11 – DK GRN/WHT – Right Audio Signal (+), *-Band Receiver and/or CDX
A12 – BRN/WHT – LR Low Level Audio Signal (+)
A13 – BRN – LR Low Level Audio Signal (-)
A14 – LT GRN – RF Low Level Audio Signal (-)
A15 – LT GRN/BLK – RF Low Level Audio Signal (+)
A16 – BLK/WHT – Ground
B1 – ORN – Battery Positive Voltage (Live at all times)
B2 – ORN – Battery Positive Voltage (Live at all times)
B3 – WHT – Antenna Enable Signal
B4 – YEL – Backlight Lamps Control
B5 – BLK – Ground
B6 – PPL – Amplifier Present Signal
B7 – Not Used
B8 – Not Used
B9 – Not Used
B10 – Not Used
B11 – Bare – Ground (Audio Drain Wire)
B12 – TAN – LF Low Level Audio Signal (+)
B13 – DK GRN – LF Low Level Audio Signal (-)
B14 – BLK – RR Low Level Audio Signal (-)
B15 – DK BLU – RR Low Level Audio Signal (+)
B16 – BLK/WHT – Ground
#2- harness not shutting off
i had the same problem 2 weeks after having my pioneer HU, i have no idea what went wrong when i was trying by pass it and it wont shut off no more, i measured it like you did and had the exact same readings. i took it back to the shop got a new one and everything worked fine.
so im pretty sure your harness is fried, get a new one. its covered under warranty
i know it must be frustrating right now but good things take time, get the new harness and you will now be dissapointed, i wasnt on this forum when i did mine i have like 3 threads and each was like 6 pages long on the other forum pontiac bonneville club.com and i had the same problems as you now, took me over 3 months to get it all together and working cause no one had it changed before i guess lol
but it was all worth it at the end
you also have to cut a little bit out of the dash cavity to fit it in, be careful not to cut any wires, they are really tight in there
you can use whatever you want from tools such as a dremel, saw and more
i used a drill
my old pioneer HU
06-02-2010, 09:38 PM
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Thanks Sam, I was a little pissed when I wrote that up earlier, but I'll see if I can get a replacement. Looks like you took out a little more of the back of the dash then I did. I don't think I'll cut that wire just yet, I'll wait until I can at least get it to turn on and off right. I've got the factory stereo back in now, so I'm not driving in silence till I can get this replaced. Thanks for the pinout diagram on that plug from ddalder, I saved that for future use.
Brent
Brent
Last edited by Brent; 06-02-2010 at 09:40 PM.
06-02-2010, 09:58 PM
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yeah i took out a little more than you because i have a double din, im sure yours is a single din, and not to forget mine had GPS and bluetooth so i need more space in the back for all the wires
06-02-2010, 10:06 PM
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yeah that does suck, the one i have is iphone compatable its nice i can even receive calls while listening to music and it even charges it.
but i dont plug in anymore because all my music is on my 8GB SD card
but if you need more help please let me know
but i dont plug in anymore because all my music is on my 8GB SD card
but if you need more help please let me know
06-18-2010, 05:46 PM
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Brent, I was wondering did you cut that little brown wire that is on the 16 pin connector... According to the picture it doesn't look like you did.... If you didn't cut that wire that is why you don't have any audio. I found that out the hardway....