Yes, you need the right resistance value (one of 15 possibles; check the table on the bottom of Page 4, the fifth page of this file, for the listing: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/Model781.pdf ) through the key circuit so that VATS will allow the fuel pump and starter-enable relays to close.

As randman1 says, this has nothing to do with deactivating the factory security system, however. For that, your box should ground the light-green wire in the driver'* door.

sorry i havent had much time to get to this alarm, but i have been busy and my computer is having problems. i should be able to do more work to this next week. I just wanted to let you know im still around.

On this whole relay thing for the parking lights, could i get power for number 30 and 85 from anywhere or what. Or would i just connect 85 to any constant power source and then connect 30 to 85 or what? HOw would i do this? Sorry but im still kinda lost on this

Your power input for the parking lights should come from one of the two large red wires at the ignition switch, the same ones that are powering everything else in this installation.

As I understand your parking-light output wire from your control box, it'* a positive pulse that the box provides, so that will go to terminal 85 to trigger the relay, and terminal 86 should be the ground connection for it. Terminal 30 will be the main power input from the red wire that will be powering the parking lights, and terminal 87 will be the output that you tap into the brown wire from the headlamp switch:

85: Wire from control box
86: Ground
30: Power supply from red wire(*) at ignition switch
87: Output to brown wire at headlamp switch

Hold the phone! You dont need a relay for the park light output. The 850 has an on-board relay. You just connect it to the park light wire located at the headlight switch. A short-cut is behind the fuse block. Connect it to the brown wire at fuse #21 (IP Lighting). The use of an external relay is for if your parklights needs ground to turn on.

Ok thanx. Aside from the vats override, where else will i need a relay

Yeah, what he said. I just went back to Page 3 of this thread and found the original wiring assignments:

Um, you are _following_ the manual on your installation, right?

The VATS override doesn't use a relay: you will (I assume) be putting in a bypass box that'* intended to provide the correct resistance that the VATS unit is expecting. (Do you get one as part of your installation kit, or do you have to buy that separately?)

From what I see of the original wiring list here:

...it sounds like you're going to need a relay to pop the trunk.

Just so we're all on the same page now:

1) Where are you at in the installation? i.e. What have you got done so far, and what remains?

2) Are you doing this in the sequence that the installation manual specifies?

All i have left on the installation is the ten pin wire harness and the 3 pin wire harness. IM also having trouble finding the brake light wire. IS it pluged in at the top of the pedal and if so is there anywhere else in that wire that i could tap into at, because it looks almost impossible to get it right there, i cant even find the wire there it just looks like a big mess. I havent pluged anything into the control unit yet, right now all of the harnesses are dangling under the dash and all of the fuses are pulled.

I sympathize, but that'* where you're going to find the wire. It is a little tight around there, and you may need to carefully slice open some tape wrapping here or there to push wires aside and get at the one you're looking for (which is... um... whatever color I said it was before... ), but this is why every function uses a different color of wire, so that even when it _is_ a big mess, you know what color you're looking for and you can ignore all the rest.

I'd try going at this by ignoring the wire bundles and homing in on the plunger switches themselves, where they ride on the brake pedal. Look at the wiring connectors attached to those switches and sooner or later you're going to spot the color you're after. There may be one connector and switch, or more than one, depending on year of car and equipment levels, but there'* still only one brake lamp output wire, and it'* the only one of that color.

Something has gone seriously wrong with this alarm instalation. After i hooked up the wires for my headlights, my door pin trigger switch and my tach speed sensor, my car keeps cutting power to itself and it wont start at all. I never plugged any of the harnesses into the control unit. I am thinking that when i hooked it up to my icm, the wire running from the icm to the dash that i used was enough to ground it out and fry the icm and possibly the ecm. It was 18 gauge and i thought it would be ok as long as i didnt plug it in. IM taking the alarm off today and checking every fuse, if the fuses are all good and the car still doesnt start, im taking it to a diagnostic center. Does anyone have anything else this could be