I made a second call to them and they did email an 850 manual. I need someone else to host it as it ia a Word document.

Can anyone host this?

Here is the text version of your wire connections. Anything labled n/c should not be connected to any vehicle wires and be terminated with tape or other suitable insulator. Two things I was uncertain of was 1) if you have a second ignition and 2) the correct vehicle wire color for unlock. Andy can confirm, though.

I'm sending the complete 35 pg manual to Andy so he can post for all to see and use.

H1: 6 PIN HEAVY GAUGE WIRING CONNECTIONS:
H1/1 Violet wire – Starter Output – Yellow wire @ main ign harness
H1/2 & H1/3 Red wire – +12V Power Input – Red wires @ main ign harness
H1/4 Yellow wire – Ignition Output – Pink wire @ main ign harness
H1/5 Pink wire – Ignition 2 Output-
H1/6 Brown wire – Accessory Output (Heater /ACC Output) – Orange wire @ main ign harness

H2: 5 PIN WIRE HARNESS:
H2/1 Red / White wire – Parking Light Relay Power Input – Red wire @ main ign harness
H2/2 White wire – Parking Light Relay Output (10A power output) – Brown wire @ headlight switch
H2/3 Black wire – System Ground – Ground
H2/4 Brown wire – Siren Drive Output – black wire of siren if installed. Red wire gets +12 constant
H2/5 Red wire – System Power- Red wire @ main ign harness

H3. BLACK 4-PIN CONNECTOR. – TWO-WAY TRANSCEIVER/ANTENNA MODULE- plug it in

H4. 3-PIN BROWN CONNECTOR FOR OPTIONAL PAGING (KNOCK) SENSOR- optional ??

H5: 9 PIN MINI BLACK INPUT WIRE CONNECTORS:
H5/1 White / Black wire – Negative Safety Shut Down Input – to hood pin switch
H5/2 White / Violet wire – Positive Safety Shut Down Input – blue wire @ brake switch
H5/3 Black/White wire – (-) Remote Start Enable Toggle Switch Input – Ground
– (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input
H5/4 Blue wire – Ground Instant Trigger Input (Zone 2) – n/c unless additional sensors are used
H5/5 White / Green wire – (-) Diesel Wait – To - Start Input – n/c
H5/6 Green wire – Negative Door Switch Sensing Input (Zone 3) – White wire @ left kick panel
H5/7 Violet wire – Positive Door Switch Sensing Input (Zone 3)– n/c
H5/8 White / Blue wire – (-) Instant Start & Turn Off Input – n/c
H5/9 White / Red wire – Tachometer Signal Connection – n/c if using tachless start method. White wire @ coil pack if using tach method

H7. 4 PIN ORANGE CONNECTOR FOR 2 STAGE SHOCK SENSOR (ZONE 1 / 4) – Plug it in


8: 10-PIN MINI WHITE OUTPUT WIRE CONNECTOR:
H8/1 Yellow wire – (-) 200ma Ignition 3 Output – Wire to relay for VATS bypass
H8/2. Black / Violet wire – (-) 200mA Timer Control Channel 6 Output – n/c
H8/3 Brown / White wire – (-) 200ma Programmable Output- Opt #1. Black wire @ steering column for horn
H8/4 White wire – (-) 200ma Dome Light Control Output – Wire to relay for illuminated entry
H8/5. Black / Red wire – (-) 200mA Timer Control Channel 5 Output – n/c
H8/6 Black / Green wire – (-) 200mA Timer Control Channel 4 / Key Sensor Output – n/c
H8/7 Gray wire – (-) 200ma Channel 3 Output – Wire to relay for trunk release
H8/8 Pink wire – (-) 200ma Programmable Output (See Alarm Feature III – 2 Programming) – Option #2 to lt green wire in left kick panel for factory disarm
H8/9 Orange / White wire – 200mA Grounded Output when Disarmed – N.O. Disable – n/c
H8/10 Orange wire – (-) 500mA Grounded Output When Armed – n/c

H9. 3 PIN GREEN CONNECTOR FOR OPTIONAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR.- plug it in

H10. 2 PIN BLUE CONNECTOR FOR THE VALET SWITCHlug it in

H11. 2 PIN WHITE CONNECTOR FOR THE LED STATUS INDICATORlug it in

H6. 3 PIN DOOR LOCK CONNECTOR: (500mA OUTPUT)
Blue + lock – to blue wire @ left kick panel
Green + unlock – to white(???) wire @ left kick panel

Just a couple of comments below...

I think I'd put H1/5 on the car'* orange wire, not H1/6. That way I could use H1/6 on the car'* brown Accessory wire, for the low-drain accessories like wipers and stereo. (This is really just a matter of preference; it won't affect a proper installation either way.)

What activity is this wire supposed to monitor?

I strongly recommend using tach mode, so the box knows immediately when the engine starts, rather than trying to rely on system voltage surges.

If H8/4 is actually a negative lead, it doesn't need a relay: it can just be connected to the switched-ground side of any nearby interior lamp (e.g. the footwell light over the pedals). If it goes hot (+12V) when it'* activated, then it will have to be connected to a relay that will open a ground path for the interior lights.

Ummm... On second thought, maybe it should have a relay anyway. I have no idea whether a 200ma capacity is enough to accommodate current flow from all those interior lights...

Just to be clear on this: the car doesn't have a trunk relay. You need to add one, driven by the H8/7 wire, to provide +12V into the trunk-release wire. Easiest place to find the correct wire is in the driver'* door at the button (or you can eventually find it someplace under the dash).

I would recommend instead that you connect these to the yellow (Lock) and light-green (Unlock) wires at the outside key lock inside the driver'* door. That will arm the car'* factory alarm when the car is locked, and (more importantly) ensure that it is disarmed as soon as the car is unlocked.

I'm also wondering whether there'* a wire that goes to ground at the beginning of the remote start sequence. This would be a Factory Alarm Shutdown Wire, needed to prevent setting off the factory alarm when the car is started while it is still locked. I assume there is such a wire on this alarm kit, but I can't say for sure from the descriptions which one it is.

Typically, remote starters have a delay for the heater output. The ignition outputs do not. They are active through the crank output as well. It is for these reasons that it is recommended to connect the H1/6 Brown wire – Accessory Output (Heater /ACC Output) to the heater circuit. This way if the fan is set to the high setting, an access ammount of current isn't being drained while cranking.

As the RS850LCD is an alarm as well as a remote start, this is the door trigger input.

Yes. Definately use a relay here. Too many bulbs to have 200ma supply enough juice.


H8/8 was omitted. Pink wire option #2 connects to lt green wire for factory disarm. Good catch.

Ah, true...

Oh, door pin switch; okay...

Okay, the green wire you mention would be the light-green one at the outside door key lock. As I found out, it does have the slightly-annoying side effect of unlocking the car when it'* grounded, but since that is how the factory alarm is to be disarmed, I don't see a way around it. (Of course, you can always lock the car again after starting it.)

:? When the 850 disarms the factory alarm, would the interior lights come on causing the 850 to think someone opened one of the doors?

The unit will disarm the factory system when one of two things happen:
1) The disarm/unlock button on the remote is pressed
2) The remote start is activated by the remote.

In the first example, no. The alarm is deactivated. In the second example the light green wire will get a negative pulse but the factory alarm module dosen't pulse the factory illuminated entry timer. At least this is the case up to 1999 models.

Very good question, though.

Ok cool. So let me be clear on this. When the 850 gets the signal to start the car, these events happen
1. The factory alarm is disarmed and the doors unlocked without the interior lights coming on.
2. The 850 then in turn locks the doors to prevent unathorized entry then starts the car.
But when the 850 locks the doors again, would'nt it be arming the factory alarm? The reason Im asking is because Im installing this alarm on my 93 SSEi and Im puzzled.

Hold that thought...I have to check on something. From my recollection, the doors are not supposed to unlock while disarming the factory alarm. I'll need to confirm but my car dosen't have factory anti-theft so it may take a bit.

Yes. Grounding the light-green wire not only disarms the factory alarm but also unlocks the doors. The interior lights do not come on.

Um...

1) I don't think that the 850 will lock the doors again. This automatic-unlocking is a kind of unwanted side effect of grounding the light-green Factory Alarm Shutdown Wire. I don't think the programmers of the 850 knew about this so I don't think they've programmed a Lock pulse into the 850'* starting sequence.

2) When the car is running, locking the car won't arm the factory alarm.

Having said all that, if the 850 has a wire that provides a pulse after the starting sequence is complete, you could use that to lock the doors again. I don't know the unit well enough to tell you for sure if it'* got such a wire, though.