ok i figured out hot to get power into the turn light relay. I found a diagram in the manual that says you should tap it into the 12 volt power wire in the same harness. Would this work

Do you have a link to the alarm I would like to get one installed also..thanks

http://www.ikesound.com/category-category_id/793

here you go. You would be the 4th person on this forum to have this alarm

I got a late start in reading your post. Sorry. How'* it coming along?

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=84

This should help with the column wiring. Thanks to Andy Green for putting this together.

Okey-dokey...

Understood, but don't go disconnecting things unless you know they're interfering in some way. The old remote starter probably won't get in your way, since its function is to bypass the ignition switch, not replace it.

I think we may need to clarify what it is that'* not working right here, because that may have a bearing on whether your new alarm will work properly, too. e.g. The factory alarm monitors door, hood and trunk opening, but that'* all. If a system that simple isn't working properly, it might be worth finding out why.

Duly noted...

No, it isn't. It'* the starter crank wire. Please be careful to keep track of which is which; it doesn't hurt to keep a page of notes somewhere to compile and refer to as you go. Also see the TechInfo article on ignition wiring color codes that someone else has posted here just now.

I'd say so, yes.

The Starter Cranking wire from your Autopage box would connect to the Light Yellow wire in the car.

I would recommend leaving the purple wire undisturbed for now. The reason I say this is in case the old remote starter has some security starter-kill feature of its own (e.g. a fuel-pump shutoff) that could get in the way if it doesn't detect things occurring in the right order in your car. By leaving the purple wire connected, it will detect the starter voltage and (most likely) assume that you are using your key to start the car.

I think you're finding the power inputs and outputs going to the old remote starter. Again, I see no harm in leaving those as-is. Just be sure that you're connecting to the factory wires.

I'm not sure what your "two outputs" are, unless one is Ignition and the other is Starter Crank (i.e. I would have expected at least one more output to power the main accessories such as the HVAC blower for heating or cooling down the car).

Well, it'* sort of both, but the car can't be cranked unless it'* in Park or Neutral, so you don't need any extra wiring connections for that.

Does this have something to do with the Autopage installation or are you changing subjects here? We need to know if this is something that the Autopage will control, or how you want to control these driving lights otherwise.

Ok thanx . Ill probly get to more of this alarm thing friday when i have the time. The factory alarm will only work if i diconnect the battery then lock my doors. IF you try to open the door without first unlocking it it will go off. then when you turn the alarm off and lock it it wont go off again.

Oh, you mean if you just lift the handle without even getting the door open (which I guess you can't since it'* locked), the alarm goes off anyway?

Wait a second here...

When your alarm goes off, what exactly does it do? The factory alarm honks the horn and flashes the exterior lights. If you have something else happening instead (e.g. an electronic siren going off), that'* not a factory alarm. Reason I say this is that if somebody installed one of those cheesy little voltage-sensing alarms instead, that'll be set off by lifting the outside door handle, because that turns on the interior lights and the little light around the door key lock. The resulting voltage drop can set off a current-sensing alarm, such as a cheap aftermarket unit. A factory alarm can only be triggered by _opening_ the door.

If that'* the situation here, you're going to need to find and yank that stupid old aftermarket alarm. It'* not the factory setup, and it probably will play havoc with your new system as well.

Don't know exactly what the significance of this is, but what you've described before does not sound like the factory alarm.

the big yellow on the main harnes under the dash
clarify this your starter kill get tapped in to that thats for aftermarket alarms but for factory alarms i dont know

did you find the brain for the old remote start? normally on the column or around it and for you parking light flas it get tapped in the that system so by the headswitch i would connect it
and whatever you do you alarm has the option of a horn honk HOOK IT UP becasue the siren is pretty weak
the instant trigger for the alarm gets hooked up to the dome light supervision circuit and mount the shock sensor on the column interlace it with wires around it for the best operation (wires are better for vibration) on my car the didnt use a VATS by-pass they just used a resisitor
well hope the helps??
remember dont cut any wires just clamp over them